mzcmn said:
I am using the Red Sea Ammonia Fresh Test kit. It's not a good test. The directions are horrible. It claims to give "precise" measurements of NH3 and NH4, but the directions only refer to "toxic ammonia" levels and doesn't specify to whether it is NH3 or NH4, or a combination of the both put together. The directions are confusing/unclear and I assume, since the color card says NH3/NH4 ppm that it is just testing a total amount of both combined. They could have explained things much better. Don't buy this kit.
I have never used this product before, so I can't speculate on its accuracy and/or precision. Seeing as the bottle mentions that it measures both NH4 and NH3, it could very well be measuring the total ammonia nitrogen that is dissolved in the water. If you are really concerned about which of the two you are measuring, here is a handy rule of thumb for the NH3/NH4 ratio:
For every one unit decrease in the pH measurement there is about a ten-fold decrease in the percentage of toxic ammonia (NH3). For instance, at pH 7, NH3 can be measured at 0.33% of the total ammonia nitrogen; whereas at pH 6, NH3 is only at 0.03%.
mzcmn said:
The kit I use for pH, nitrites, nitrates and water hardness is the API 5 in 1 Aquarium Test Strips and I have no problem with that test. Still showing 0 or close to 0 of both nitrites and nitrates. My tank has been cycling now for four weeks, so maybe I don't have any cause for alarm and need to just wait it out.
You may very well have NO2 and NO3 in the tank already, but because you are using the test strips, you're getting inaccurate readings.
mzcmn said:
I am having trouble identifying the amount of ammonia.. All tests have resulted in a .25 amount of ammonia, and at someone's recommendation, I tested the dechlorinated water before adding to tank, and it too, measured .25 apparently because of the presence of chloramines in the tap water, even though the water conditioner is supposed to break the chloramine bond.
Generally speaking, chloramine is formed by reacting ammonia with water that contains chlorine. That is two chloride ions are bound to one ammonia molecule. Therefore, the easiest and quickest way for testing chloramine in tap water is to test for ammonia using the ammonia test kit. If it comes up with a reading for ammonia, then you can be certain that the tap water has been treated with chloramine.
The water conditioner that you are using will say that it will neutralise both chlorine and chloramine. I've always trusted in its ability to neutralise chlorine, but not so much chloramine. The principle chemical in these water conditioners is sodium thiosulphate. When sodium thiosulphate binds to chloramine, it will cause the release of the ammonia molecule. For this very reason, it is advised that you double the concentration of the water conditioner. However, this could benefit your situation, for you are seeking a source of ammonia to seed the tank and start the cycle.
mzcmn said:
I'm confused, I thought chloramine was very poisonous to axolotls...
You're right. Unlike chlorine, which is an oxidiser and has the ability to burn the gills of fish (and most probably axolotls, too), chloramine bypasses the gills and enters to fine capillary beds in the gills and attaches itself to the oxygen transporting molecule, haemoglobin. Such a reaction results in methemoglobinemia (similar to nitrite poisoning), and is characterised by the animal spending prolonged periods at the surface of the water. In other words, the animal is suffering from 'oxygen-deprivation'.
However, chloramine has been used at fish hatcheries to control bacterial gill disease. It has also been shown that chloramine has the ability to kill pathogenic bacteria and parasites in koi ponds.
mzcmn said:
Should I do a water change today? daily? weekly? what's the appropriate frequency during cycling? I know if he was in the tank, I would want to do it daily or every two days, but since he's not, I just want to do whatever will help the tank cycle through the fastest.
I can understand the need to complete the cycle ASAP because it can be disconcerting to see your pet in a confined and unorthodox environment, i.e. the fridge.
Have you looked at this link
http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/cyclingEDK.shtml?
There is no set regime for cycling the tank, as results will vary across each tank. Because your tank has an ammonia reading of 1 ppm, I see no need to perform a water change on a daily basis. Basically, you will only have to start doing water changes if the ammonia gets over 4 ppm. If ammonia gets above 4 ppm it will hinder the nitrification cycle. For now, just let your tank do its business without any water changes, but be sure to check the water chemistry on a daily basis.
Although I see no need to rush things, I can still empathise, as you have been cycling for four weeks. So, here are some pointers to push things along:
- Increase the temperature. The optimum temperature for bacterial growth is 35C/90F. However, I am a bit wary as to what other bacteria you may introduce by raising the temperature. Nonetheless, the water temperature can be raised using a submergible heater.
- Increase oxygen input. Generally speaking, the amount of oxygen present in a tank is minimal. This poses a problem for nitrifying bacteria because they are aerobic bacteria, i.e. they require oxygen to survivie. In the community of bacteria thriving in the tank, the nitrifying bacteria are poor competitors for oxygen. That is, the bacteria that break down organics (excluding nitrogenous waste) '
steal' the oxygen from the nitrifying bacteria. A oxygen concentration of 1 mg/L or above it required for efficient nitrification. You can increase the amount of oxygen in the tank by introducing an air pump, or you can simply lower the water a couple of inches to create a greater splash on the surface of the water, which will facilitate gas exchange with the environment. The filter that you are using right now is perfect for the nitrifying bacteria residing in the wheel.
- Adjust the pH to roughly 7.2 for this is when nitrifying bacteria are most effective. By placing crushed sea shells in a stocking, and submerging it into the water, you can slowly raise the pH. This method does work, but I wouldn't recommend it because the last thing you need is fluctuating pH parameters.
The underlying issue here is the test kits for NO2, NO3, and pH. You will have to get liquid test kits for these parameters because it makes it particularly hard to say anything for certain when you don't know what values you are working with.
Keep up the good job though, and best of luck!
Jay.
