The Torosa family?

I'm no expert on Taricha Seth, but those newts in the link look a lot like T. rivularis to me, how do you tell them apart?

T. rivularis have redder bellies usually, and I am almost positive these are T. granulosa, as they don't have as red belly, and this photo was on CC taken by a experienced Taricha herper. :)
 
Yes, I know where the picture is from. I wasn't questioning you Seth, ;) I just think the picture makes them look like rivularis. I wonder if the photo was taken at night? The flash must be messing with their colours? Their bellies couldn't be much redder than that, surely and their skin is rivularis grey rather than brown like all T.grans I've ever seen.
 
Thanks for the photos seth and fabian. I guess ill just have to be patient and keep my eyes peeled.
 
Yes, I know where the picture is from. I wasn't questioning you Seth, ;) I just think the picture makes them look like rivularis. I wonder if the photo was taken at night? The flash must be messing with their colours? Their bellies couldn't be much redder than that, surely and their skin is rivularis grey rather than brown like all T.grans I've ever seen.

Heh, sorry, my bad :eek:
I would agree, the male ( on top ) does look quite grey which I haven't seen in this species either. It does look like a flash was used, which I suppose could change the color a bit. The belly color is a bit more red than you usually see in T. granulosa, but redder bellies do turn up occasionally.
 
What are your thoughts on moving water witht hese guys? Do they prefer streams or still water? Would a small filter stress them out?
 
They do occasionally breed in streams, but it is best if they don't have too strong a current. A small filter would be fine.
 
They look happy and healthy! Great Enclosure!!

Evan
 
Hey All,

It's been too long. I wanted to post for a few reasons, First: to show you my new setup with all my fancy live plants and second, to ask why I keep getting this horrible green algae all over my java moss, Anubias and well pretty much everything.... I have been watching my nitrates and everything seems normal and healthy.

I do have my Finnex Ray 2 that runs on timer for 10 hours a day. I figure that's probably too long so I've dropped it down to 8 hour days. Also, another concern is that I keep them in the basement and it stays very cool down here. The water temp is consistently around 58 degrees and never over 60 (granted it is winter time). Could this low temp be why my plants don't seem to be very healthy or growing at all? Do you recommend a heater to get it up to a better temp for the plants but still cool enough for my T grans? It seems like to me that the algae can thrive in the cooler temp and as a result out survives the plants which aren't as hardy in colder water. Just to clarify the species of plants are Anubias, Java Ferns, Java Moss and some grasses as well. It's all in a sand substrate mixed with some tiny bits of fluorite gravel.

Also I assume we are supposed to stay away from fertilizers for the plants correct? Can't they be harmful to caudates?

Thanks and mostly importantly, do my T grans look healthy to you guys? they are very active and really fun!

here are the photos:

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I would not add a heater, the only one of these I ever lost is when I kept it warm, developed mouth rot and died very quickly. I know someone who kept one in his basement for 17 years.
 
It's been too long. I wanted to post for a few reasons, First: to show you my new setup with all my fancy live plants and second, to ask why I keep getting this horrible green algae all over my java moss, Anubias and well pretty much everything.... I have been watching my nitrates and everything seems normal and healthy.

What is your Nitrate at? The Nitrate in my old T. granulosa tank was always around 40, and I had algae growth as well. It isn't really anything to worry about though, algae only looks bad, but it doesn't hurt your tank in any way.

Also, another concern is that I keep them in the basement and it stays very cool down here. The water temp is consistently around 58 degrees and never over 60 (granted it is winter time). Could this low temp be why my plants don't seem to be very healthy or growing at all? Do you recommend a heater to get it up to a better temp for the plants but still cool enough for my T grans?

Yes, that is a possibility. Also, Anubias don't grow fast at all, even in warmer water temperatures they are slow growers.
Here is a thread with a list of plants that are cold water compatible http://www.caudata.org/forum/f46-be...mander-help/94054-plants-coldwater-tanks.html
If you are hoping to breed the newts then I wouldn't recommend a heater, otherwise it would probably help the plants.

Thanks and mostly importantly, do my T grans look healthy to you guys? they are very active and really fun!

They look fantastic! The male is in a bit of breeding dress, has he been amplexing the female much? Always nice to see pictures of this species, simply beautiful animals....
 
Both the newts and tank look great! I don't think temperature is a concern, Java fern and Anubias do very well in cold water tanks (they just grow slowly). The algae on the rocks and anubias look like the normal green algae that exists in a healthy cycled tank. The algae on the java moss looks to me like blue-green algae (cyanobacteria, not actually an algae). I had a pretty big boom of it in one of my tanks. I cleared it up by removing by hand and with a turkey baster from the plants, moss and tank wall as well as reducing the time the tank is lit. It took regular removal for a few weeks to get rid of it. I also started doing more frequent water changes and have not had any more problems since.
 
Thanks for the tips Perry. Between your comments and my research on the algae page of this forum many of my concerns are mitigated. Guess I'll get down and dirty and clean it up by hand and see what happens.
 
A Finnex Ray 2 probably produces WAYYY too much light for the plants you have. That light setup is meant to be used for densely planted aquariums with CO2 injection to keep the plants out competing with any algae. Anubias, java fern, and java moss are all very low light plants (and slow growing) and I recommend that you change your light fixture accordingly and throw in low maintenance, fast growing plants like water wisteria or egeria/elodea to out compete the algae. I use a Zoo Med Ultra Sun Trichromatic Super Daylight 6500K Fluorescent Bulb T8 15 Watt, 18-Inch (considered to be low light) for my heavily planted 10 gallon with plants similar to yours and everything is growing well.

Here's a great low light aquarium guide that to give you a better idea on a lighting set up and photo period for the plants you have and for a tank of your size: How to Setup a Low-tech Planted Tank: A Guide for Planted Aquariums | Welcome to Sudeep Mandal's spot on the net Just be sure not to do anything in the guide that could harm your newts (their waste will probably make fertilizers unnecessary anyway).

Almost all planted tank struggles with algae at times until plant biomass gets to a large enough level. I use red cherry shrimp and a nerite snail to help keep the algae in my newt tank under control. Your newts may have better luck eating shrimp than do mine so I would recommend glass shrimp as a cheap alternative.

Live plants can be a tough thing to jump into and algae outbreaks are definitely frustrating but as your tank ages and you get a better idea of what you're doing, it will become much easier.
 
Thanks for the comments everyone!

chezr, is there any way I can hold on to my finnex ray and limit the amount of time its on or raise it higher up ? I have zero funds to spend on yet another light fixture and my wife will kill me if I do....It's funny you sent me the link you did for low tech planted tanks because I've actually been researching that very page for months now. The problem is that I have very limited funds to plant as heavily as suggested in that guide and plants get expensive. Anyone have any suggestions on affordable plants here in the west (Utah area)?

eyrops, I did eventually get a lid but now I've moved over to a different setup. Thanks for the tip.
 
Anyone have any suggestions on affordable plants here in the west (Utah area)?

What about water lilies and cattails? You could go to a pond or lake and collect some for free.
 
I don't have any experience with reducing my light output, but I know other planted tank keepers will elevate their lights higher above the aquarium either by hanging the light from the ceiling or by making a stand (stacked books on the sides of the light) to increase the distance between the light and the water. Also, anything the light passes through will reduce the amount of light entering the tank, so you can try putting a screen or clear plastic (tupperware?) under your light, but I'm not sure if that can mess with the light frequencies plants require for photosynthesis. I would reduce your photoperiod to 5-6 hours and adjust the high of your light until you find a nice balance.

Luckily, fast growing aquarium plants are usually considered to be weeds and can be super cheep. Water wisteria and any type of elodea/egeria should be really inexpensive and you can just throw them in at the water surface. I know they sell them both at my local petco, and I've heard they're at some petsmarts as well. Any local live fish store should have those plants and will probably sell you clippings for cents - just look them up and call ahead. Duckweed, and parrot's feather are plants you can find at pond stores that will grow at the top of your water line for shade and again are plants that you just need to keep a few leaves or a stem of and they'll grow quickly. Devil's Ivy is one that you might already have in your house, or you can ask to break a short stem with a root nub off at a garden or restaurant and grow it with its leaves out of the water. You can also attach some of your java moss to something floating at the top of your tank. This will allow the moss to grow very rapidly and dampen the light on anything below it. I do this in my tank and it makes a nice little bed close to the surface that my newts spend their nights in. Actually it looks like you have some floating cholla skeleton that would be perfect. Just weave a few strands of java moss through the holes and it will take off. If it gets filled with algae just cut it back.

Keep in mind that any algae growing in a place you don't care about is competing with algae growing in a place you don't want it, so it's a good idea to let grow in areas that are out of sight or on a part of your hardscape that looks neat with a little green.

Ghost shrimp will probably do a wonderful job at keeping algae off of your plants' leaves and are commonly sold as feeder food so they can be just a few cents per shrimp. I saw a huge difference in the amount of algae in my tank after adding some shrimp. Snails are another option, and I would go with either pond snails (usually free), trumpet snails, or ramshorn snails (a nerite snail is probably the best algae eater but too large to clean smaller leaves). Just know that by introducing snails that you'll probably have them forever (excluding the nerite as they can't reproduce in fresh water). It's unlikely that snails will attack your plants unless a leaf is already dying.

I'm not sure if you've had live aquarium plants before, so if you haven't, I want to let you know that it's common for them to 'melt' shortly after taking them home and planting them. This is very common in anubias plants because many growers start them in a terrestrial set up so the leaves they have are too waxy and not useful one submerged. Don't give up on your plants and throw them away if the leaves start degrading, just be patient and it's likely that they'll grow back. It's harder keeping a planted tank with newts algae free because water flow, fertilizers, and small (edible) algae eating invertebrates really help, but as your plants establish they'll need less maintenance.
 
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thanks chezr,

You've really done your homework and thanks for the feedback. I was getting frustrated at the older anubia leaves dying off but I did notice the younger leaves below appear to be flourishing and a lovely green color. I have since ordered some elodea and wisterias and hope those will help out as well.

I've also raised my light up a good 8 or 9 inches off the lid and have it on timer for 8 hours a day. I'm starting to notice that time helps while the plants are establishing themselves because I looked at my tank yesterday and there was less of a greenish tint and it was significantly clearer overall. The plants seemed to be doing much better as well.

The hardest part for me is to hold off on moving things around to my liking. I'm an artist by trade and aesthetics are everything so I like to move things frequently to meet my design standards…. This is an urge I have to suppress!

going to upload more pics soon.
 
Hey guys,

I've added some elodea to the tank and my t grans love perching on them. Figured I'd share some photos:

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The grooms been getting frisky of late....


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Looks great! And your males tail is getting pretty big, you never, maybe you will get eggs :D
 
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  • Katia Del Rio-Tsonis:
    Dear All, I would appreciate some help identifying P. waltl disease and treatment. We received newts from Europe early November and a few maybe 3/70 had what it looked like lesions under the legs- at that time we thought maybe it was the stress of travel- now we think they probably had "red leg syndrome" (see picture). However a few weeks later other newts started to develop skin lesions (picture enclosed). The sender recommended to use sulfamerazine and we have treated them 2x and we are not sure they are all recovering. Does anyone have any experience with P. waltl diseases and could give some input on this? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
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  • Katia Del Rio-Tsonis:
    sorry I am having a hard time trying to upload the pictures- I have them saved on my hard drive... any suggestions-the prompts here are not allowing for downloads that way as far as I can tell. Thanks
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    Katia Del Rio-Tsonis: sorry I am having a hard time trying to upload the pictures- I have them saved on my hard... +1
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