Do you use a filter?

does your axolotl tank have a filter

  • yes

    Votes: 127 91.4%
  • no

    Votes: 12 8.6%

  • Total voters
    139
I've had my Lotls for going on 5 years now, well Puckles for 5 and Brent for about 2, and I have never used a filter because they got stressed out due to moving water. I have the intention of purchasing a sponge filter, but I do water changes every 4-6 weeks but I never see any waste, nor is there any algae buildup and the water doesn't get unclear or filthy.
I know I might get a lot of flack and "test your water levels, your Axies are probably unhealthy" blah blah blah.
But my babies just mated and they are always active and happy. I haven't seen them with wavy tails or any stress or illness related behavior since Puckles ate gravel when I FIRST got her and was learning the ins and outs.
This is the way I see it- they do fine in the wild without a filter... a little dirt never hurt ANYONE

Are you saying you simply don't test your water levels? You should be testing them weekly, with your water changes.

And the benefits of having a sponge filter are definitely worth the 7$ it takes to obtain them - it puts oxygen into the water and helps keep a steady cycle for your axolotls without creating any water flow. Plus they seem to like sitting on them for some reason.
 
I've had my Lotls for going on 5 years now, well Puckles for 5 and Brent for about 2, and I have never used a filter because they got stressed out due to moving water. I have the intention of purchasing a sponge filter, but I do water changes every 4-6 weeks but I never see any waste, nor is there any algae buildup and the water doesn't get unclear or filthy.
I know I might get a lot of flack and "test your water levels, your Axies are probably unhealthy" blah blah blah.
But my babies just mated and they are always active and happy. I haven't seen them with wavy tails or any stress or illness related behavior since Puckles ate gravel when I FIRST got her and was learning the ins and outs.
This is the way I see it- they do fine in the wild without a filter... a little dirt never hurt ANYONE

First of all, a natural lake is totally different than a filter-less aquarium! Your aquarium setup and long term results must be a very unusually lucky occurance. I really am curious to see what the full test results would be after the 6 weeks, before you bother to change the water.
I fear that a newbie will see your post and think that this maintainance schedule is okay. It is not, and I certainly do not recommend it.
 
I won't tell you that you NEED a filter, because filters are not, strictly speaking, necessary. It all depends on things like your pH, how big your tank is, how many axolotls you have in there, how much surface area you have in there for bacteria to colonize, how many plants, etc.

I would NOT recommend the filterless route to a newbie, however, even though there are many newbies that have gone filterless with no problems, just because there are many more that had problems. Newbies (and not-so-newbies like me) are prone to getting "just one more cute little axolotl" and pretty soon you have too many axolotls for a filterless set-up to be healthy.

I WOULD recommend that everyone have a test kit and use it occasionally, it for no other reason than to speed the diagnosis of "what is wrong with my axies?" Plus, I consider it very educational: "What happens to the pH if I don't do water changes for a few weeks?" "Does having plants really reduce nitrate?" and things like that. (So I'm a bit of a geek. :happy:)
 
I know that a natural setup is very different from an aquarium, and yes maybe I was very lucky with having a setup. When I first joined this forum I was told to not get a filter and I abided by that (I couldnt even tell you who suggested me not using one, I could try to find it but it would be about 5 years back)
I NEVER said I don't test my water, I actually just tested after I had to remove their eggs, and now that you asked:
when I did the test last week the pH was at a 7.4, the temperature is at 60 degrees Fahrenheit .

I do like the idea of their cute little selves sitting on a sponge filter, like I said, I have every intention of getting one it just doesnt seem like a MUST HAVE RIGHT AWAY item. :D
 
I NEVER said I don't test my water, I actually just tested after I had to remove their eggs, and now that you asked:
when I did the test last week the pH was at a 7.4, the temperature is at 60 degrees Fahrenheit .

I do like the idea of their cute little selves sitting on a sponge filter, like I said, I have every intention of getting one it just doesnt seem like a MUST HAVE RIGHT AWAY item. :D

Must've been the way I read it, I'm glad I made a mistake. :)

My 3"s will pile onto the sponge filter and sit there for the longest time, it's the best! But they really are a perfect investment, especially because they take so long to go "bad""". Perfect environment for bacteria and with the 0 flow it produces I feel like they were made for axolotls. And it wouldn't really mess up your more natural cleaning routine as it doesn't really filter waste. Gosh, I love those things.
 
My pH is 8.2, and I tend to keep tanks at the more crowded level. I don't DARE go without a filter - minor ammonia spikes would be much more serious with my set-up.

Newbies reading this in the future - unless you have a really good understanding of water chemistry and a test kit, don't take the risk of going filterless. And even if you have a filler, you still need a test kit to monitor the process of the cycle when you set up the tank.

=> If you are reading this before getting your axolotl, if at all possible, do a "fishless cycle" - your axolotl will appreciate it.
 
And if you don't have one already, I suggest getting an API master test kit ( this kit includes the important ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate tests). That is what I really mean by the full test results.
Axolotls produce a lot of waste. So, especially if you are only running a sponge filter or no filter, you really need to be doing at least 20% weekly to bi-weekly water changes... and that is if your tank is already cycled and under stocked.
I tend to over stock like Laura :rolleyes:, so I definitely do weekly water changes and closely monitor the water quality.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sde
When I first joined this forum I was told to not get a filter and I abided by that (I couldnt even tell you who suggested me not using one, I could try to find it but it would be about 5 years back)

I didn't find that, but I did find this thread, where everyone is saying that you should have a filter. http://www.caudata.org/forum/f46-be...substrate/76891-filters.html?highlight=filter

To put the last 8 posts in summary, you should have a filter on your tank, unless you have a ton of plants, which isn't ideal for newbs, so a filter should be used, test your water every week and do water changes every week, get the API master test kit, aquariums aren't the same ( or even close, unfortunately ) to lakes, sponge filters are best for axies, and Laura and Bette overstock their tanks :p
 
Guilty as charged. Do as I say, and not as I do! Do NOT overstock your tank(s)!!! :wacko:
 
For those who do not use filter due to too much water flow....MOST filters have flow adjustments. I have a fluval 206 on mine and have it set at the lowest setting with the outlet a few inches above the water line. Even have some plants under it to break up the trickle. Axies don't mind and water is crystal clear.
 
I can see both sides to this conversation but in my humble opinion if you have the ability to keep a filter in there tank it will definitely help them stay healthy. A small sponge filter cost like $30 max and is pretty maintenance free . I'm of the condom theory - I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it .
 
For so called "Filterless aquariums" it's important to understand what a power filter dose and how to accomplish similar results in your tank. Power filters are not the only filters! I would recommend using BOTH a power filter and in-tank passive filtration.
For passive filtration, you will need to: (1) Get enough oxygen into the water. An air pump and plenty of plants will do this. (2) Provide plenty of surface area for bacteria to grow. The less current there is, the more surface area you need! (3) remove solid waste, shed skin, etc. will have to be done manually and as quickly as possible. (4) have a way to export non solid waste from the water between water changes. plenty of fast growing plants can do this too, but there are also chemical additives to consider.
An aquarium without a power filter should have no more than half the bio-load as the same size tank with one!!! moving water really speeds things up a lot.
The bigger your tank, and the less boi-load you have, the more stable your system will be. Never get over confident or you will regret it! Test water quality often (especally ammonia, nitrate and nitrite) And alwase ask yourself if you would be happy in the same conditions.

PS. Plants have a day/night cycle and actually take oxygen OUT of the water during the night! don't let your pets drown in there tank! this also makes the tank more acidic during the night, so hard water is recommended for PH buffering.
 
This is off-topic-
I don't mean to sound rude or nagging, but please put capital letters and use full words, not "r" and "u", as well as correct use of punctuation. It makes it much easier to read and a lot of people on this site do not have English as their first language, it makes it hard for them to understand. Please read the forums rules.

Ah, Jake. Music to my ears. As an editor by trade (ex-editor, given that no-one edits anything much these days, such that reading a newspaper causes me a great deal of stress and not just because of the content), I can discuss, say, the semi-colon at length and with relish. Yes, I know, it's tragic, but there are a few of us left. Thank you. You've made my day.
 
... a little dirt never hurt ANYONE

It's not visible dirt you need to be worried about. It's ammonia and nitrites and nitrates in the water, which you cannot see but which are toxic to your axies. Even if your tank has established its own bacterial filtration system over time and has live plants to help remove nitrates, weekly water changes of 10% to 15% would still be needed to guarantee safe nitrate levels. A sponge filter would be a cheap and worthwhile addition to your set-up, and you could also do with a reliable liquid test kit (API Freshwater Master Kit is recommended often on this site). Or for peace of mind, at least take a water sample to your LFS and ask them to test it for ammonia (should be zero), nitrites (should be zero) and nitrates (should be there, but at no more than 40ppm and preferably about 20ppm).
 
In my tanks there are terrestrial plant without soil, roots are in water. It can directly absorb ammonia without being transformed.
 
I'm new to owning axolotls but I use a fluval triple system filter (poly/carbon, foam and biomax) with variable flow. Several live plants, I siphon waste daily, feed once a day on earthworms (or as a rare treat, bloodworm) I siphon anything that isn't eaten. I test my water on a regular basis using API master test kit and do a weekly water change of 15% to 20%.
 
I use canister filters in both my axolotl tanks, they provide good mechanical filtration & provide recirculation supply through the chiller units. Combined with weekly water changes & periodic removal of any waste the water is always in check. The beauty of no substrate makes keeping the tank clean very easy.
 
In my tanks there are terrestrial plant without soil, roots are in water. It can directly absorb ammonia without being transformed.
What type of plant is that? Sounds interesting! :p
 
I am just now in the process of setting up my tank but have purchased a sponge filter and an OTS filter. I still have a lot to learn about tank cycling and setup before I delve into purchasing an axolotl to put in there.
 
General chit-chat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
  • rreu:
    z
    +1
    Unlike
  • Dnurnberg:
    Hello. I just noticed two notches, white small bubbles on the hind legs of one of my male newts.
    +2
    Unlike
  • Dnurnberg:
    I'm trying to put the l
    +1
    Unlike
  • FragileCorpse:
    Hey everyone, just want a little advice. Its 55 - 60 celcius in my Salamanders tank. Hes curled up and tyring ti bury himself, Im assuming hes too cold. I was wondering if he would benefit from a heated rock cave (since he LOVES his cave) that I could set on low? I NEVER see him curled up and trying to bury himself unless his tank sits at 63 degrees celcius or lower. So I am assuming hes a little uncomfortable.
    +1
    Unlike
  • FragileCorpse:
    He also seems a little sluggish, again, assuming hes cold. Having heating trouble with the new house right now. What do we think? Was thinking of grabbing this for him since its got very low, medium, and higher medium heat settings that exude heat downward inside the rock cave but ALSO exudes it UPWARDS outside of the rock cave, effectively keeping the tank itself a little warm. Seems like it miiiight be a little small for him though, my guy is about 7 inches from tip of his nose tothe tip of his tail. What do we think? https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Simulation-Adjustable-Temperature-Tortoise/dp/B0CH1DPGBC
    +1
    Unlike
  • FragileCorpse:
    I also asked this as an actual question in a thread in case anyone wants to answer it there instead of here
    +1
    Unlike
    FragileCorpse: I also asked this as an actual question in a thread in case anyone wants to answer it there... +1
    Back
    Top