Ingo
New member
AW: 10 Gal Tiger Sal Tank
Hello,
in my opinion a tank with a floor space of 100x40 cm is comfortable.
Greetings Ingo V.
Hello,
in my opinion a tank with a floor space of 100x40 cm is comfortable.
Greetings Ingo V.
-
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10 Gal Tiger Sal Tank
- Thread starter AflackMatt
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when mine was young he wandered all over the tank. Made burrows everywhere. hardly a plant was put in and he was under it pushing it out. he trounced every fern, pushed up all the moss. He started out in a 20 long.
But I didn't hand feed him. I tossed in his crickets or dropped worms on his head and he hunted them down. Where ever he happened to be is where he was fed.
Now that he's old and blind he's fed in the same place every time. he's pretty much programmed to come out of his burrow when the lid opens and unfortunately the young one is getting lazy - waiting for me to put food in his mouth. Actually thats an exaggeration. He never waits for anything. generally he leaps, missing the prey and dangles from my fingernail for a bit.
They are all in a 40gl 3 ft long now. One stays burrowed, hunting down earth worms. I can tell where he's been by the uprooted pots & plants. And by the lack of earthworms against the glass.
the other two stay under the beach most of the time waiting for food to be delivered.
And bromeliads.
I've kept bromeliads for years. I can usually keep one alive until it pups then I manage to kill them. This is anywhere from 1 year to 4 years. All were kept in containers or vivariums. Maybe some of the more rare epiphytic specimens die being planted in soil but most are sold this way here in the US. They're supposed to be newbie proof.
I use information from a houseplant i have - I ought to call it a houseplant bible, its saved a ALOT of plants around here.
But this site has similar or same info... http://www.plantsindesign.com/care_tips.htm
...GROWING BROMELIADS INDOORS
Bromeliads are excellent indoor plants. They have colorful, long-lasting inflorescenses and some have brilliantly colored foliage as well. Bromeliads also readily adapt to the unfavorable growing conditions that exist in most homes.
Although many bromeliads are epiphytic, living on branches and trunks of trees or on rocks in their native habitat, most can be grown in containers. Clay and plastic pots are equally satisfactory as containers unless plants are large, in which case the heavier clay pot is more stable. Because plastic pots retain moisture longer than clay pots, plants grown in the former need watering less frequently than those in the latter. Epiphytic bromeliads can also be grown in perforated plastic baskets and clay pots like those used for other epiphytic plants such as orchids.
Because bromeliads rarely have extensive roots, relatively small pots are adequate for most plants. The larger varieties can usually be brought to flowering in 5 to 7-inch pots. Terrestrial plants do not have to be moved into larger pots until their roots completely fill the current container. Move young epiphytes into pots one size larger every spring, however, until the maximum convenient pot size has been reached.
Some epiphytic bromeliads, such as the gray-scaled Tillandsia, grow poorly if planted in a conventional potting mixture. They grow best in a medium such as tree-fern bark, cork-oak bark, or on a tree-fern slab, or pieces of wood. To mount a plant on one of these materials, wrap the base of the plant (including roots, if any) in sphagnum moss, and tie the wrapped base to its support by winding plastic-coated wire around the moss and the supporting material. Fasten the ends of the wire firmly but in such a way that it can be easily untied. Hang the mounted specimens in a convenient place. Spray the sphagnum moss and plant with water frequently enough to prevent complete drying of the moss.
After supportive roots grow over the sphagnum moss and around the mount, remove the temporary wire. To keep the plant alive and healthy, water the plant, its roots, and the supportive materials twice weekly throughout the year. Water can be applied as a spray or the entire mounted plant can be submerged in water for a few minutes. The humidity around plants will influence their need for water. The humidity in a home which is heated during the winter months or cooled with air-conditioning during the summer months can be very low and plants may need to be watered more frequently than those grown in a moist environment.
**********************************************************
There is more extensive info on the website.
Ingo maybe I sounded censoring or rude - I'm sorry. I was just in a rush.
and matt good luck lugging the 40 gl tank outside to experience weather conditions. opps 20 gl right?
who said opacum has spines?
and a sweating fogging tank - not sure about the science of it all - but I'm pretty sure that means 1. no air flow. 2. to warm.
But I didn't hand feed him. I tossed in his crickets or dropped worms on his head and he hunted them down. Where ever he happened to be is where he was fed.
Now that he's old and blind he's fed in the same place every time. he's pretty much programmed to come out of his burrow when the lid opens and unfortunately the young one is getting lazy - waiting for me to put food in his mouth. Actually thats an exaggeration. He never waits for anything. generally he leaps, missing the prey and dangles from my fingernail for a bit.
They are all in a 40gl 3 ft long now. One stays burrowed, hunting down earth worms. I can tell where he's been by the uprooted pots & plants. And by the lack of earthworms against the glass.
the other two stay under the beach most of the time waiting for food to be delivered.
And bromeliads.
I've kept bromeliads for years. I can usually keep one alive until it pups then I manage to kill them. This is anywhere from 1 year to 4 years. All were kept in containers or vivariums. Maybe some of the more rare epiphytic specimens die being planted in soil but most are sold this way here in the US. They're supposed to be newbie proof.
I use information from a houseplant i have - I ought to call it a houseplant bible, its saved a ALOT of plants around here.
But this site has similar or same info... http://www.plantsindesign.com/care_tips.htm
...GROWING BROMELIADS INDOORS
Bromeliads are excellent indoor plants. They have colorful, long-lasting inflorescenses and some have brilliantly colored foliage as well. Bromeliads also readily adapt to the unfavorable growing conditions that exist in most homes.
Although many bromeliads are epiphytic, living on branches and trunks of trees or on rocks in their native habitat, most can be grown in containers. Clay and plastic pots are equally satisfactory as containers unless plants are large, in which case the heavier clay pot is more stable. Because plastic pots retain moisture longer than clay pots, plants grown in the former need watering less frequently than those in the latter. Epiphytic bromeliads can also be grown in perforated plastic baskets and clay pots like those used for other epiphytic plants such as orchids.
Because bromeliads rarely have extensive roots, relatively small pots are adequate for most plants. The larger varieties can usually be brought to flowering in 5 to 7-inch pots. Terrestrial plants do not have to be moved into larger pots until their roots completely fill the current container. Move young epiphytes into pots one size larger every spring, however, until the maximum convenient pot size has been reached.
Some epiphytic bromeliads, such as the gray-scaled Tillandsia, grow poorly if planted in a conventional potting mixture. They grow best in a medium such as tree-fern bark, cork-oak bark, or on a tree-fern slab, or pieces of wood. To mount a plant on one of these materials, wrap the base of the plant (including roots, if any) in sphagnum moss, and tie the wrapped base to its support by winding plastic-coated wire around the moss and the supporting material. Fasten the ends of the wire firmly but in such a way that it can be easily untied. Hang the mounted specimens in a convenient place. Spray the sphagnum moss and plant with water frequently enough to prevent complete drying of the moss.
After supportive roots grow over the sphagnum moss and around the mount, remove the temporary wire. To keep the plant alive and healthy, water the plant, its roots, and the supportive materials twice weekly throughout the year. Water can be applied as a spray or the entire mounted plant can be submerged in water for a few minutes. The humidity around plants will influence their need for water. The humidity in a home which is heated during the winter months or cooled with air-conditioning during the summer months can be very low and plants may need to be watered more frequently than those grown in a moist environment.
**********************************************************
There is more extensive info on the website.
Ingo maybe I sounded censoring or rude - I'm sorry. I was just in a rush.
and matt good luck lugging the 40 gl tank outside to experience weather conditions. opps 20 gl right?
who said opacum has spines?
and a sweating fogging tank - not sure about the science of it all - but I'm pretty sure that means 1. no air flow. 2. to warm.
Last edited:
Ingo
New member
AW: Re: 10 Gal Tiger Sal Tank
Hello,
i just can impart my own expieriences with bromelias based on serious reference books.
Greetings Ingo V.
Hello,
i just can impart my own expieriences with bromelias based on serious reference books.
Greetings Ingo V.
AflackMatt
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The aquarium has a glass cover. To keep the moisture in. The temp is currently 73.6 F. Its just really humid in there.
madeve
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Sharon, I think he meant his plants don't have spines.
A 10 gal is fine for one tiger, I have a 20gal Long for my two and they have room to roam ... but I don't have pretty plants ... yet. I have about 5" of 50/50 top soil and coco fiber mix as substrate and my tigers seem to love burrowing under their water dish.
Ingo
New member
AW: Re: 10 Gal Tiger Sal Tank
Hello,
i`m insecured, i thought, a Us-Gallone is a measure for the volume, not for the length.
Here in europe we have total different measuring units.
Please can you explain me how big, in cm, is a 20gal tank?? -Thanks-
Greetings Ingo V.
Hello,
i`m insecured, i thought, a Us-Gallone is a measure for the volume, not for the length.
Here in europe we have total different measuring units.
Please can you explain me how big, in cm, is a 20gal tank?? -Thanks-
Greetings Ingo V.
Jan
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The aquarium should have a mesh top for ventillation. You do not want moisture build-up on the sides - this indicates lack of air flow. Too high of humidity can set up conditions for bacteria and fungal growth which obviously can negatively impact the health of your animal. The temp is high for a sustained environment. Keep the temp below 72 and optimally between 60-70F. Your current temp and humidity is great for your bromelaid which are subtropical plants.....but not for your tiger.
Jan
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Re: AW: Re: 10 Gal Tiger Sal Tank
A 20 gallon long has a surface area of 2,300sq cm and a 10 gallon has a surface area of 1290sq cm. There is also a 20 gallon 'high' that has less surface area as it is taller and has less length. Both hold a volume of 20 gallons.
I noticed that you would suggest 4,000 sq cm for one adult.....I would have to say that would be quite a palatial estate! I feel a 10 gallon works quite well for one adult tiger IF it is set-up with the animal and his nature in mind. Too often I think we go for aesthetics that are pleasing to the human eye and not what is best for the animal.
Hi Ingo
A 20 gallon long has a surface area of 2,300sq cm and a 10 gallon has a surface area of 1290sq cm. There is also a 20 gallon 'high' that has less surface area as it is taller and has less length. Both hold a volume of 20 gallons.
I noticed that you would suggest 4,000 sq cm for one adult.....I would have to say that would be quite a palatial estate! I feel a 10 gallon works quite well for one adult tiger IF it is set-up with the animal and his nature in mind. Too often I think we go for aesthetics that are pleasing to the human eye and not what is best for the animal.
Ingo
New member
AW: 10 Gal Tiger Sal Tank
Hello Jan,
thank you for that entry.
We here in the old World have a minimum requirement for the tank sice:
total length in cm x 0,01 = floor space im qm²
So a tank with a floor space from 100x40 cm is less aesthetically than adequat, in my opinion.
But i think ,the ideas of a species-appropriate setup is different between europeans and americans;-))))
Greetings Ingo V.
Hello Jan,
thank you for that entry.
We here in the old World have a minimum requirement for the tank sice:
total length in cm x 0,01 = floor space im qm²
So a tank with a floor space from 100x40 cm is less aesthetically than adequat, in my opinion.
But i think ,the ideas of a species-appropriate setup is different between europeans and americans;-))))
Greetings Ingo V.
Jan
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Re: AW: 10 Gal Tiger Sal Tank
Sorry if that was the implication... but I was not intending to suggest that a 100x40cm area would be for aesthetics - this large of an enclosure would be great! Larger is always welcomed but smaller (in this case a 10gallon for one adult tiger) will work when it is established with the animal's nature in mind. You may be right about the Europeans and Americans:happy:.
Hi Ingo
Sorry if that was the implication... but I was not intending to suggest that a 100x40cm area would be for aesthetics - this large of an enclosure would be great! Larger is always welcomed but smaller (in this case a 10gallon for one adult tiger) will work when it is established with the animal's nature in mind. You may be right about the Europeans and Americans:happy:.
zonbonzovi
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Moss keepers-
the key to keeping it alive is moisture, moisture, moisture. Thankfully, newts & sallies thrive in moist conditions. Where I live, it grows in abundance. For 9 months out of the year, it is almost always wet on top for at least half the day and recieves at least a few hours of light. I've been growing some in an Ensatina tank where it is always wet, not soggy, but wet. It gets a little bit of natural light each day as well. I'm not sure if this helps, but I've noticed increased growth since I've added scores of small critters that normally live beneath the moss: small centipedes(geophilomorphs & stone), isopods, slugs, millipedes, etc.
Nice tank!
the key to keeping it alive is moisture, moisture, moisture. Thankfully, newts & sallies thrive in moist conditions. Where I live, it grows in abundance. For 9 months out of the year, it is almost always wet on top for at least half the day and recieves at least a few hours of light. I've been growing some in an Ensatina tank where it is always wet, not soggy, but wet. It gets a little bit of natural light each day as well. I'm not sure if this helps, but I've noticed increased growth since I've added scores of small critters that normally live beneath the moss: small centipedes(geophilomorphs & stone), isopods, slugs, millipedes, etc.
Nice tank!