The challenge: to build a divided tank using only off-the-shelf materials that anyone* can buy from ordinary stores. (*My apologies to non-USA readers. I have no idea if the materials I used are available in other parts of the globe.)
Materials:
Preparation: Clean all glass surfaces that will have silicone applied with rubbing alcohol. This will remove dust, fingerprints, and anything else that would decrease the adhesion of the silicone.
Step 1: Dispense entire tube of brown caulk, spread out with hand (use glove!) and sprinkle with gravel. Let cure. [Safety message: silicone caulk produces strong vinegar fumes, which can injure your eyes and nasal membranes. Do not put your face over the tank after dispensing a whole tube of caulk! Keep your head down along the side of the tank as you spread the silicone.]
Step 2: Put FAT bead of clear caulk along the bottom corner, and place slate onto it. The container of gravel you see under the slate is holding the slate at the correct angle as the silicone cures. Let cure.
Step 3: Turn tank on one SIDE and place square glass beads along the underside of the slate tile. These will provide structural support for the weight of the slate and land area. If you don't have square glass/stone beads, use pebbles. Let cure, then turn the tank over on the other side and repeat.
Step 4: Apply plenty of caulk and smooth the caulk carefully with your finger for a complete seal along all 3 sides where the slate contacts the glass. Remember, this has to hold water. (If you find this enjoyable, your next project will be your bathtub!)
Step 5: TILT the tank so that the slate piece is flat. Apply caulk and put rocks and pebbles in place along the front edge. Remember, this also has to hold out water!
I also put some smaller pebbles in to cover the bare silicone.
OOOOPS!!!! After this cured, I could see that there were tiny cracks where water could probably get through between some of these stones. So... more caulk was applied in large quantities, and covered with more gravel. This took a couple of weeks to stop smelling like silicone, but I waited until all smell was gone before assembling the tank.
Step 6: After a lengthy cure-time, finally time for tank assembly. First step [IMPORTANT]: clean out all residue left from the rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol contains denaturants that may be toxic, so the first step was to hose down the tank and wipe all interior surfaces with a wet rag.
For assembly, I first placed a clear piece of tubing in the back corner (see it?). This is for emergency drainage of water from the land area. (PVC pipe can also be used for this. Thank you Sludgemunkey for this idea.) I used hydroton/leca as a drainage layer, but ordinary gravel could also be used.
On top of the leca, I put a piece of filter pad material cut to size. This will stop the dirt from falling down into the drainage layer.
On top of the pad, I put a soil substrate mix. This was topped with a layer of fir bark chips. As you can see, this tank sits between other tanks, so I don't really care about the ugly water marks on the sides of the tank. I will usually be seeing the top view of the tank.
I already had to remove water from the drainage layer. I put in a little too much water initially and it went over the divider. Here is a siphon stuck into the built-in drainage tube, and the procedure for removal of the water with a siphon bulb.
Materials:
- 15-gallon aquarium, used, but with good solid silicone seals.
- one 12x12 inch slate tile (available at home improvement shops)
- 2 tubes of silicone sealant, one brown, one clear. Both are types considered aquarium safe.
- 8 square stone beads (or you can substitute square glass beads, or just plain pebbles). I got these for $3 at Walmart.
- various smooth/rounded rocks and gravel
- rubbing alcohol, disposable gloves, paper towels, caulk gun
- not shown: filter pad material, soil and bark substrates, and one piece of fat clear tubing (or PVC pipe)
Preparation: Clean all glass surfaces that will have silicone applied with rubbing alcohol. This will remove dust, fingerprints, and anything else that would decrease the adhesion of the silicone.
Step 1: Dispense entire tube of brown caulk, spread out with hand (use glove!) and sprinkle with gravel. Let cure. [Safety message: silicone caulk produces strong vinegar fumes, which can injure your eyes and nasal membranes. Do not put your face over the tank after dispensing a whole tube of caulk! Keep your head down along the side of the tank as you spread the silicone.]
Step 2: Put FAT bead of clear caulk along the bottom corner, and place slate onto it. The container of gravel you see under the slate is holding the slate at the correct angle as the silicone cures. Let cure.
Step 3: Turn tank on one SIDE and place square glass beads along the underside of the slate tile. These will provide structural support for the weight of the slate and land area. If you don't have square glass/stone beads, use pebbles. Let cure, then turn the tank over on the other side and repeat.
Step 4: Apply plenty of caulk and smooth the caulk carefully with your finger for a complete seal along all 3 sides where the slate contacts the glass. Remember, this has to hold water. (If you find this enjoyable, your next project will be your bathtub!)
Step 5: TILT the tank so that the slate piece is flat. Apply caulk and put rocks and pebbles in place along the front edge. Remember, this also has to hold out water!
I also put some smaller pebbles in to cover the bare silicone.
OOOOPS!!!! After this cured, I could see that there were tiny cracks where water could probably get through between some of these stones. So... more caulk was applied in large quantities, and covered with more gravel. This took a couple of weeks to stop smelling like silicone, but I waited until all smell was gone before assembling the tank.
Step 6: After a lengthy cure-time, finally time for tank assembly. First step [IMPORTANT]: clean out all residue left from the rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol contains denaturants that may be toxic, so the first step was to hose down the tank and wipe all interior surfaces with a wet rag.
For assembly, I first placed a clear piece of tubing in the back corner (see it?). This is for emergency drainage of water from the land area. (PVC pipe can also be used for this. Thank you Sludgemunkey for this idea.) I used hydroton/leca as a drainage layer, but ordinary gravel could also be used.
On top of the leca, I put a piece of filter pad material cut to size. This will stop the dirt from falling down into the drainage layer.
On top of the pad, I put a soil substrate mix. This was topped with a layer of fir bark chips. As you can see, this tank sits between other tanks, so I don't really care about the ugly water marks on the sides of the tank. I will usually be seeing the top view of the tank.
I already had to remove water from the drainage layer. I put in a little too much water initially and it went over the divider. Here is a siphon stuck into the built-in drainage tube, and the procedure for removal of the water with a siphon bulb.
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