Question: Settling Into A New Tank

[NadeZ]

Move my axolotl (Mudkip) into a new tank yesterday. The tank is 2x1x1ft with a sand substrate and had been left to air and dechlorinate for 1 day and then left to cycle (using nutrafin cycle) for 3 days. Upon moving in she was very shy, curled tail, arched gills and hiding at the darkest patch in the tank. She relaxed a little after a few hours but was still sticking to the hiding places. I switched the light off overnight and have left it off all day as I fear it may be stressing her. Despite this she is being incredibly shy. There were footprints all over the tank in the morning but she has stuck to the hiding places throughout the day. She only moved (from hiding place to dark spot) when I use a weighted bit of string to entice her towards food.
This leads me to my other issue, food. She normally eats up pellets within an hour but this time she does not seem interested. I did manage to get her to eat 2 pellets by wiggling things next to them but she hasn't eaten any of the others in the tank.
She used to be really active, living in a bare bottom 15 litre tank for the last 8 months. She would swim around, stare at people, and go up for air every once in a while. The deeper tank and better water conditions (i think) could be the reason she isn't going up for air but how do I get her to relax and be more active in the new tank? And how do I ensure she eats her food?

 

[auntiejude]

Sme axies sulk when you move them. Give her a couple of days, keep monitoring the water parameters and she should perk up in a day or 2.

 

[Kaini]

You may want to check your water parameters (if you haven't done so already). I have a hard time believing products like nutrafin cycle work - how is that bacteria still alive sitting on a shelf for that long? I've never had luck with them (though I suppose some have ..?) I've also heard those products only work temporarily, if they work at all. The type of bacteria is actually different, (one that will potentially live on the shelf - please pardon me for not knowing the scientific names) and dies off after a while.

But also as auntiejude said, give it time to settle in, they're generally stressed by being moved.

 

[NadeZ]

Thanks for your replies! @Kaini, yeah I will definitely test the water, I read the reviews and they all seemed very positive so I just stuck to the procedure and assumed it would work without testing (though I have added a little extra each day after mudkip moved in, just in case).
Is there any way to test the water cheaply, any companies that offer free samples of test kits? The test kits are quite expensive as a student. As a Biomedical student I may have access to tests which measure ammonia and nitrite. If anyone knows the laboratory name for these tests, I can borrow them from the university labs.

 

[Kaini]

Thanks for your replies! @Kaini, yeah I will definitely test the water, I read the reviews and they all seemed very positive so I just stuck to the procedure and assumed it would work without testing (though I have added a little extra each day after mudkip moved in, just in case).
Is there any way to test the water cheaply, any companies that offer free samples of test kits? The test kits are quite expensive as a student. As a Biomedical student I may have access to tests which measure ammonia and nitrite. If anyone knows the laboratory name for these tests, I can borrow them from the university labs.

You CAN take a sample of your water into petsmart or petco and they will generally test it for you. Just ask for the actual readings in ppm, them just telling you it's 'fine' is not good enough.

You really need your own test kit though; testing the water is really important BEFORE you introduce your animal to it. Again, I'm really skeptical those cycling products work and I'm afraid your levels are wonky.

The API liquid test kit is pretty cheap actually (and I understand the broke student thing, I'm in that boat, but I tend to sacrifice a few things for my animals xD)
Amazon.com: API Freshwater Master Test Kit: Pet Supplies if you have amazon prime, it's 19 bucks. I believe it's also around 20 bucks at petsmart. I don't know about petco - I don't often go there.

 

[NadeZ]

You CAN take a sample of your water into petsmart or petco and they will generally test it for you. Just ask for the actual readings in ppm, them just telling you it's 'fine' is not good enough.

You really need your own test kit though; testing the water is really important BEFORE you introduce your animal to it. Again, I'm really skeptical those cycling products work and I'm afraid your levels are wonky.

The API liquid test kit is pretty cheap actually (and I understand the broke student thing, I'm in that boat, but I tend to sacrifice a few things for my animals xD)
Amazon.com: API Freshwater Master Test Kit: Pet Supplies if you have amazon prime, it's 19 bucks. I believe it's also around 20 bucks at petsmart. I don't know about petco - I don't often go there.

Damn those things are nearly twice the price here in the UK. I have a pet store 10 mins away that will test the water so will take a sample to them tomorrow and buy a test kit if any of the numbers are iffy. As a reference, what are the ideal numbers I'd be looking for?

 

[Alkylhalide]

The cycling products only help introduce bacteria to the tank. Remember you are introducing an animal that creates the same amount of waste as 50+fish in a 10gallon tank.. I use cycle but it only helps brin the cycling time down a week or two. I cycled a 50 gallon tank in 5weeks.

I would still continue to test the water frequently until you get a fully cycled tank.

Even taking seed material from a cycled tank doesnt i stantly cycle a tank. I am sure if you completely replace one to the other it would, but still may crash for a day or two.

I paid 30$ for my liquid test kit and i have had it for a year and still have plenty left and have cycled a 10,25 and 50 gallon tank with it. I think its a worthwhile investment.

 

[Kaini]

Damn those things are nearly twice the price here in the UK. I have a pet store 10 mins away that will test the water so will take a sample to them tomorrow and buy a test kit if any of the numbers are iffy. As a reference, what are the ideal numbers I'd be looking for?

For a properly cycled tank, your levels should ALWAYS be:

Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates <40ppm

Any ammonia at all is stressful to an axolotl.

Another question, do you have a filter in this tank? The beneficial bacteria live in filter media, not in the open water, so without a filter you can't realistically hold a cycle.

 

[NadeZ]

For a properly cycled tank, your levels should ALWAYS be:

Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates <40ppm

Any ammonia at all is stressful to an axolotl.

Another question, do you have a filter in this tank? The beneficial bacteria live in filter media, not in the open water, so without a filter you can't realistically hold a cycle.

Yes, I have a stingray 15 internal filter and had it on throughout the 3 day cycle.

 

[Elise]

Having a personal test kit to measure your nitrogen cycle is considered essential as amphibians are incredibly susceptible to the toxicity of ammonia and nitrite. You should view the purchase of a test kit as a required cost of owning an axolotl and budget for it the same way you do with food and dechlorinator.

Bottled bacteria often don't work. Presently, you wouldn't know either way if yours did. You could have a three day cycle, then a week later the bacteria colony could start to die out completely. Again, you wouldn't know.

If you are this resistant to the expensive of a test kit, what are your plans in the event you need a vet?

 

[Kaini]

Yes, I have a stingray 15 internal filter and had it on throughout the 3 day cycle.

Well that's good, but what I've been trying to say (and Alkylhalide mentioned) is that there is no such thing as a 3 day cycle - it's just impossible. Cycling a tank takes weeks and weeks.

So test your levels daily. (this is why you really need a kit! daily trips to pet store = not fun or feasible) You WILL get ammonia and nitrite spikes you'll have to solve with water changes. It'll be stressful for your axie.

Bottled bacteria often don't work. Presently, you wouldn't know either way if yours did. You could have a three day cycle then a week later the bacteria colony could start to die out completely. Again, you wouldn't know.

^

 

[Alkylhalide]

For a properly cycled tank, your levels should ALWAYS be:

Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrites: 0ppm
Nitrates <40ppm

Any ammonia at all is stressful to an axolotl.

Another question, do you have a filter in this tank? The beneficial bacteria live in filter media, not in the open water, so without a filter you can't realistically hold a cycle.

I would also like to mention just to avoid confusion, as a brand new tank may read 0-0-0 across the board, that nitrate levels should be between 10-40 to show a cycled tank. Therefore though the levels should never go over 40, a level under 10may signify the tank crashed.

Just wanted to add this

 

[Alkylhalide]

Yay for cycling tanks! I hate it. Luckily ive been upgrading 10-25-50 so ive just needed to ultimately start growing enough bacteria to hold a cycle in a bigger tank, because I would just move everything to the bigger tank, and let the old filter run with the new one for a bit.
My 50gallon ive had to cycle twice because due to renovations i did have to empty it for 2weeks and was unable to save my cycle. The first one took 4weeks to cycle and the second time only 5 yay

 

[NadeZ]

Eek, all the reviews I read on the cycle stuff said that it did a good job of establishing a colony of nitrifying bacteria within 3 days. I know I took the shortcut as I didn't want to leave her in a tiny tank for 2 months, waiting for a nicer one to cycle. Was a stupid risk really. I'll test the water tomorrow and can order a kit online. What would you suggest I do to ensure the safety of the axolotl? Will x% water changes daily/weekly avoid a dangerous spike? I can monitor the water levels but if the ammonia or nitrite spike, what should I do?

Edit: This is my first time using a biological filter as the previous 15L tank simply had a single sponge internal filter which I rinsed out once every 10 days while doing a 25% water change.

 

[Kaini]

Eek, all the reviews I read on the cycle stuff said that it did a good job of establishing a colony of nitrifying bacteria within 3 days. I know I took the shortcut as I didn't want to leave her in a tiny tank for 2 months, waiting for a nicer one to cycle. Was a stupid risk really. I'll test the water tomorrow and can order a kit online. What would you suggest I do to ensure the safety of the axolotl? Will x% water changes daily/weekly avoid a dangerous spike? I can monitor the water levels but if the ammonia or nitrite spike, what should I do?

Edit: This is my first time using a biological filter as the previous 15L tank simply had a single sponge internal filter which I rinsed out once every 10 days while doing a 25% water change.

While the tank is cycling, to keep your axie safe do around 50% changes every other day. (or smaller changes daily, up to you) If you see a spike, just do a large water change (but never all of it, that'll just crash the cycle).

What you'll be doing is a fish-in cycle, essentially; you can google that if you need more information. I'm currently cycling my goldfish tank (with them in it) because the cycle crashed when I moved. You just have to be really diligent with the water changes, and test the water every day.

Axolotls are a lot more sensitive than goldfish though, so I'd really keep on top of it.


About your edit - A sponge filter is a perfect biological filter? I don't understand what you're saying the difference is here lD

 

[NadeZ]

About your edit - A sponge filter is a perfect biological filter? I don't understand what you're saying the difference is here lD

It was one of the cheap ones that became blocked if it wasn't rinsed every 2 weeks so I assumed I was washing away any bacteria that might have built up.

 

[Kaini]

It was one of the cheap ones that became blocked if it wasn't rinsed every 2 weeks so I assumed I was washing away any bacteria that might have built up.

Ah, I see.

It may or may not have been - you can gently squeeze sponge filters in TANK WATER to clean them and keep them from getting gummed up without killing the bacteria. if you rinsed it in tap water (chlorinated water) then you 100% killed the bacteria, yea.

Anyway, good luck with everything and hope your lil' guy calms down!

 

[NadeZ]

Thank you everyone for your advice. Would it be recommended to put some zeolite in the filter to absorb some ammonia? This would make it easier for mudkip but could slow down the formation of nitrifying bacteria

 

[Kaini]

Thank you everyone for your advice. Would it be recommended to put some zeolite in the filter to absorb some ammonia? This would make it easier for mudkip but could slow down the formation of nitrifying bacteria

I had to look up what that was (so if anyone familiar with it comes around, listen to them) - no, I would certainly not recommend that, it sounds like it would just ruin your cycle.

In general you really should just avoid putting extra chemicals into your aquarium, for anything. Chemicals won't solve having an un-cycled tank, they aren't miracle fixes and generally do more harm than good (especially with an axolotl - they're sensitive to some things fish aren't). The fewer the better - pretty much everything can be achieved with water changes and a proper cycle.

Ran off on a bit of a tangent there, but anyway; don't get discouraged, your little guy will be fine as long as you keep up with changing the water

 

[NadeZ]

Had the water tested today and the ammonia was at around 1ppm with low nitrite and nitrate. The low nitrate suggests that a colony of beneficial nitrifying bacteria has not been established. I have ordered the API master test kit and will do daily water changes as advised. Would it be better to have more or less water in the tank, in terms of maximizing the cycling