Photo: PLEASE VIEW MY 55 GALLON (48" by 12") SLATE TILE FLOOR

[virago]

Thank you to nickjwes for the pictures, advice and specific details on his "new slate bottom axolotl tank" post.

I chose to use this method on my 55 gallon (48" by 12") tank. My smaller aquariums will remain bare glass floor bottom. The silicone is still curing and I am happy with the progress thus far.

When ready, I have a Rena Filstar xP1 (external canister filter) for up to 45 gallons (170 litres) at 250 gallons per hour (950 litres per hour.) I pictured a tank with 3/4 full water and a spray bar trickling the outflow. I wonder if I should have purchased the next size larger fliter and opted for full water level. Any advice?

 

[SludgeMunkey]

Pro tip:

The silicone will cure faster if you place a small dish of warm water in the tank.

 

[Jennewt]

Pro tip:

The silicone will cure faster if you place a small dish of warm water in the tank.

I can understand the warmth making it cure faster... but does the water itself have some function?

 

[SludgeMunkey]

I can understand the warmth making it cure faster... but does the water itself have some function?

Correct! Water in the form of humidity is essential to properly cured silicone products (and expanding urethane foam too!). I personally do not quite understand the chemical reaction that causes silicone adhesives to cure, but from what I understand O2 and H2O are integral to a quality cure.
The small dish of warm water in the tank is just an easy way to raise the ambient humidity in the cure zone without risking getting too much water on the sealent, thus removing oxygen from the reaction and preventing it from curing at all.

 

[AllyTK]

When I put slate in my tank I never siliconed it so that i can take slates out if ! want to give it a good clean