Hi! I'm kind of clueless when it comes to aquarium stuff so I'm just trying to figure some stuff out.
So firstly, I've been seeing a lot about tank cycling. Can anyone explain to me what that is and how to do it?
Second, how do I clean my axolotl's tank? I've noticed some scum like stuff on some of the decor as well as the bottom of the aquarium. I think it's just leftover food particles but I'm not sure and I want to be super careful about fungus and things that could harm my axie.
Like I said, I'm kind of clueless on this stuff and I'm trying to figure it out as I go along, so ANY info is gladly welcomed!
if your tank isnt cycled, immediately remove your axolotl - place them in a clean plastic container with fresh, conditioned water and replace it every day.
here’s my care guide that includes a bit about cycling
axolotl care sheet
cycling
materials needed
- API freshwater test kit (not strips!!)
- any fish food (preferably flakes - note,not for axolotl consumption)
- a 20 gallon tank, filled with water (lid is advised, axolotls are known jumpers)
- seachem water conditioner
- HOB filter or sponge filter with air pump and air tubing (sponge filters are cheaper and more effective, less flow causes less stress on your axolotl)
- any decorations or plants already in the 20 gallon tank
getting started
“You know all that equipment you got with your aquarium? Well, you need to set all that up.
Heater, filter, air pump, substrate, plants… Get it in there.
Why do you need your tank fully set up?
Well, beneficial bacteria needs a surface to cling to, namely your substrate and filter media. In fact, most of the bacteria will call your filter home.
Once your tank is set up, you want to keep any electrical equipment, such as heaters, bubblers and filters, switched on throughout the cycling process. Doing so encourages the beneficial bacteria to grow and may even make your tank cycle faster.
Note: Beneficial bacterial prefer temperature between 65-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Growth is slower outside of this temperature range – which can cause your cycle to take longer to complete. Check your water temperature with an accurate aquarium thermometer.
Step 1 Summary
Set up your aquarium
Turn on all electrical equipment” (fishlab.com)
some of this information is void, such as the temperature preference for bacteria. axolotls *need* water from 60 - 64 degrees. you also will not need a heater under any circumstances, it will kill your axolotl
“Step 2: Check your pH
This is perhaps one of the most commonly missed steps when it comes to cycling your tank – and a common cause of failed cycles.
You see, the cycling process can slow down or even stop if the pH level of your water drops below 7.
Since the master test kit includes a pH test, it would be silly not to use it now.
So, check the water you added to your aquarium with your test kit. If it’s below 7, you need to raise your pH before moving to the next step.
Good news! This won’t be a problem for most of you because the majority of water supplies across the United States test at a pH that is greater than 7.
Even so, you want to continue performing pH tests throughout the cycling process. You see, the beneficial bacteria in your tank give off acids that lower the water pH over time.
If you notice that your pH levels drop under 7, a simple 20% water change is all that’s needed to raise the pH and get the cycle going again.
So, make sure you test your pH regularly and adjust it if needed.
Step 2 Summary
Test the pH of your water
Adjust when lower than 7 pH” (fishlab.com)
“Step 3: Add your ammonia
In a brand new tank, there won’t be any waste, meaning nothing to break down into ammonia. So, we must add it ourselves.
Simply take your Fritz Ammonia and read the instructions.
At the time of writing this, one level teaspoon of Fritz Ammonia per 100 gallons of water will give you an ammonia level of 4 parts per million (ppm).
You need to know how much water is in your aquarium in order to add the correct amount of ammonia. Use FishLab’s gallon calculator if you are unsure of just how much water your tank holds.
So, measure out your ammonia…
Fish tanks less than 40 gallons: Aim for 2 ppm
Fish tanks more than 40 gallons: Aim for 4 ppm
While you can steal the measuring spoons from your kitchen, I recommend having a dedicated set of measuring tools for your aquarium.
You now want to make sure that you have added the correct amount of ammonia. And to do this you are going to use your aquarium test kit, which will give you a result in ppm
But before you do that, you want to let the ammonia sit for an hour, so that it evenly distributes throughout the water. Next, measure the ammonia levels using the ammonia test from your master test kit – Make sure you follow the instructions provided by the test kit for accurate results.” (fishlab.com)
the ammonia part is void, use fish food instead. it will break down into ammonia anyways. do not feed fish food//flakes to your axolotl.
“Step 4: The ammonia eating bacteria appears
After a week has passed, it’s time to test for nitrites. So, grab your nitrite test kit and check the levels.
If your test comes back positive, congratulations – your cycle has officially started!
Now, it’s important to remember that this bacteria feeds on ammonia. And the only thing adding ammonia to this aquarium is you. If your ammonia levels reach zero, this bacteria will starve, and you will have to start your cycle all over again.
So, we are going to give this bacteria a little more food. Add half the amount of ammonia that you added on day one, but make sure that your ammonia levels remain under 5 ppm.
Now what you want to do is monitor your nitrites, testing daily. You should notice the nitrite levels continue to rise. Once you see your nitrite levels start to drop, it’s time to move onto the next step.
See you again in a few days!
Step 4 Summary
Once nitrites are detected, add a half dose of ammonia
Ensure ammonia levels are less than 5 ppm (but greater than 0 ppm)
Daily testing of ammonia and nitrite levels
Don’t forget to test the pH every few days” (fishlab.com)
“Step 5: The nitrite eating bacteria appears
To confirm that the nitrite drop is due to the beneficial bacteria, use your test kit to check for nitrates. If they are present, you are now in the final stage of cycling your tank.
Now, we still want to make sure that the bacteria has enough food to eat. So add a half dose of ammonia as needed, each day if you have too, to keep the levels above 1 ppm.
Continue testing. When you can add a half dose of ammonia and both your ammonia and nitrite levels read zero 24 hours later, your nitrogen cycle is complete.
Woo! Home stretch… Just one more step to make it official!
Step 5 Summary
Test to confirm nitrates
Daily testing of ammonia and nitrite levels
Add half doses of ammonia every few days
When both ammonia and nitrites show <0.2 ppm, swap to daily dosing
Test until both ammonia and nitrites read zero 24 hours after dosing
Don’t forget to test the pH every few days” (fish lab.com)
“Step 6: The Final Test
You are so close. You just want to make sure that your tank is fully cycled. To do that, one last test is in order…
Once your ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero, add a full dose of Fritz Ammonia, the same amount that you added on day one. Now, will need to wait one last time…
Check back in 24 hours. Test your ammonia and nitrite levels. If both read zero….
Congratulations!
Your patience has paid off, and your tank is now fully cycled.
If you record your test kit readings each day, you will have a clear understanding of the nitrogen cycle.
It took me 28 days to cycle the aquarium.
You see a distinct rise and fall of ammonia and nitrites as the beneficial bacteria become established in the tank. You can also see how nitrates drop at each water change.
I highly recommend recording the results of your test kits each day. Not only will it give you a better understanding of what is happening in your tank, but you can also use the results for troubleshooting.
Now that your tank is cycled, the bacteria colonies are large enough to remove ammonia and nitrites as quickly as they are produced…This nasty stuff won’t be harming your fish anytime soon!
But before you add your fish, you want to perform a water change to remove those built up nitrates.
Speaking of which… You should add your fish to your tank now. If you don’t plan on adding fish just yet, keep dosing the tank with ammonia daily. This will ensure that the beneficial bacteria don’t starve. If the bacteria starve and die, you are going to have to cycle your fish-tank all over again.
It might have felt like a lot of effort, but your hard work will be rewarded once you see just how healthy and happy your fish are. And, it’s all thanks to your newly cycled tank!” (fishlab.com)
feeding
depending on the size of your axolotl, you’ll have to feed different things and different amounts. if your axolotl is smaller than four inches, feed about once every two days. depending on how much your axolotl can swallow//consume at a time, consider splitting or chopping up the food. when an axolotls is above four inches, feed once every two to three days. once again, the amount you feed depends on how much your axolotl is willing to eat.
another consideration is “what do i feed my axolotl?”
well, there are a few good options
- frozen bloodworms (only good for a snack or for a very young axolotl who can’t eat chopped earthworms or pellets)
- live earthworms (chopped, if needed)
- sinking carnivore pellets (these are 41% protein, very healthy)
i would personally recommend a mix of earthworms and pellets
if food is left in the tank, uneaten, for thirty minutes, remove it. leaving food in the tank can cause an ammonia spike
waste removal
once waste has been noticed, immediately use a turkey baster to remove it from the tank. if the ‘seal’ on the waste has broken, it will then turn into a kind of dust that floats around the tank, so try to avoid this if possible. then take the turkey baster to the closest bathroom and deposit the waste into the toilet and flush.
lighting
axolotls *do not* need light. however, some are more tolerant of it than others. it is generally suggested to leave the room light off unless feeding or cleaning. if you happen to have an axolotl that is tolerant of light (does not hide or react when the lights are turned on) you can leave the light on occasionally to help with plant growth.
temperature
axolotls both prefer and require cool water temperatures. anywhere from 60-64 degrees. being able to provide these temperatures is incredibly important, as anything too warm can cause illness, stress, and possibly death - and no one wants that! to help keep your tank cool, ivery highly recommend a small usb plug fan. mine works great and never fails to cool the tank.
hides
like most reptiles and amphibians, axolotls like to have hiding places to help make them feel safe and comfortable. these can be made of a variety of things, including decorations, mason jars, cups, mugs, pvc pipe, and anything else that is deemed safe for axolotls’ soft bodies. if you have any concerns on hides, make a post on caudata.org. it is a very reliable source with wonderful information and contributions.
substrate
general materials needed
- API freshwater test kit (not strips!!)
- any fish food (preferably flakes - for cycling only, not for feeding)
- a 20 gallon tank, filled with water (lid is advised, axolotls are known jumpers)
- seachem water conditioner
- HOB filter or sponge filter with air pump and air tubing (sponge filters are cheaper and more effective, less flow causes less stress on your axolotl
- any decorations or plants already in the 20 gallon tank
- frozen bloodworms (only good for a snack or for a very young axolotl who can’t eat chopped earthworms or pellets)
- live earthworms (chopped, if needed)
- sinking carnivore pellets (these are 41% protein, very healthy)
- turkey baster with a wide opening
- large plastic tubs with lids
- thermometer
- hides (can be pvc pipe, mugs, cups, mason jars, etc.)
- plants (if live, java ferns are widely recommended)
- fine sand (optional)
- tile (optional)
- large rocks (optional, must be glued or siliconed down to tank)
illnesses
common illnesses and health problems in axolotls consist of loss of appetite,
deterioration of the gills, skin lesions, back deformities, poor balance while swimming, injuries to limbs, gills or tail, and fungus. because i am not an expert in this field, i will not be giving specific instructions on any of these. if your axolotl seems to have any of these problems, i highly suggest you make a post on caudata.org. as aforementioned, the information and contributions are fantastic.
video reference(s)
if you have *any* questions at all, i very highly recommend making a post on caudata.org
