Getting Marbled Newts and want to ask a couple questions

[Andrestorres27]

This is the tank I have set up for them it's a 65 gallon paludarium. The land section is about 10x36 inches, and the water is about 12-13 inches deep with many way to get out. The humidity stays around a constant 80 degrees, but I have good ventilation, so the tank isn't completely soaked. Temps for the land seem to stay about 70-75 degrees right now, and water temps are staying between 70-72 degrees. I'm pretty sure I described everything I got, but if you have any questions let me know. I was just looking if anyone has some advice for me, or thought anything I have should be changed to better suit the newts.

Thanks


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[Asevernnnn]

I personally think the tank may be more suited for T. verrucosus, which tend to like warmer water temperatures when aquatic.
Ive seen that my marms will tend to leave the water when kept at a warmer temperature, if you're set on marms, I would try to cool down the temps for both areas. Also thought I should mention most breeders will sell their marms as terrestrial juveniles when they're available, so drowning could be a possibility if put into a tank with a large water volume from the start.

 

[Andrestorres27]

What temps would you recommend for the marms then? Because I have read low 70s is perfect for them, even off the care sheet on this site.


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[Asevernnnn]

Mid-upper 60s would be more ideal, when its warm or sunny outside my tank is usually 68-72F, and I put a fan over the water when it gets to the low 70s, the caresheet says around the maximum they can be kept at at the warmest part of the year, not a constant everyday temperature. It is also not very ideal to have temps that they just 'tolerate' as the temp year round either.

 

[Andrestorres27]

Well right now would be around the warmest part of the year by me. Summer time would be hotter outside temps, but with the air conditioners in our house the temps won't get any hotter then they are now, plus there is always a temperature drop at night as well, so the temp may build to about 73 at the warmest part of the day right now, and it is located close to a bay window so those could always be open to let in some cooler air right now until it's time to start using the air conditioners.
I predict the temps in the winter to be more along the lines of low 60s because of the area in the house is typically one of the colder parts of the house.
I feel that temps should be ok, but I'll try to find a way to lower it a little even if it means using the A/C a little sooner in the year


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[michael]

The temperature is to high and the humidity is to high.

 

[Andrestorres27]

The temperature is to high and the humidity is to high.

What would the humidity be better at? That reading I did was usually after misting, so I could cut back on that if it should be lower. It is also very well ventilated, so the tank is able to dry before the mister goes off again never dripping wet.

And would you recommend temps in the high 60s or even lower?

 

[Chinadog]

Apart from what has already been said, I just dont think the set up is right for T. Marms. When they behave naturally they are very terrestrial, apart from the breeding season when they are 100% aquatic. This means either the land area or the aquatic section will be unused and a waste of space depending on the season.

If you intend to keep them purely aquatic you will need to force them to remain in the water to begin with and thats something you cant do in a land/water set up, they will just leave the water and go into terrestrial mode.

If your heart is set on using the set up you already have, I would recommend Cynops ensicauda or like Aaron says Tylototriton verrucosus. Fire bellied toads would probably do well in there as well, but it really needs altering for T. marmaratus.
Hope this helps.

 

[Andrestorres27]

Apart from what has already been said, I just dont think the set up is right for T. Marms. When they behave naturally they are very terrestrial, apart from the breeding season when they are 100% aquatic. This means either the land area or the aquatic section will be unused and a waste of space depending on the season.



If you intend to keep them purely aquatic you will need to force them to remain in the water to begin with and thats something you cant do in a land/water set up, they will just leave the water and go into terrestrial mode.



If your heart is set on using the set up you already have, I would recommend Cynops ensicauda or like Aaron says Tylototriton verrucosus. Fire bellied toads would probably do well in there as well, but it really needs altering for T. marmaratus.

Hope this helps.

Again I have read that the best suitable habit is a 50/50 split, I don't care if they stay aquatic or not, they have the option it is a huge tank for them. The dimensions of the land portion is almost that of a 30 gallon tank. There are also fish in the water portion, so it isn't completely wasted space. I was also only putting 3 or 4 newts, so I have the room for them. The temps and the humidity I can understand cause I never saw exact parameters for the newts, but I don't think there is an issue with the tank. Thanks for your comments though.

 

[Asevernnnn]

Again I have read that the best suitable habit is a 50/50 split, I don't care if they stay aquatic or not, they have the option it is a huge tank for them. The dimensions of the land portion is almost that of a 30 gallon tank. There are also fish in the water portion, so it isn't completely wasted space. I was also only putting 3 or 4 newts, so I have the room for them. The temps and the humidity I can understand cause I never saw exact parameters for the newts, but I don't think there is an issue with the tank. Thanks for your comments though.

The fact that you have fish in the tank may get the newts to stay away from the water, thus adapting to terrestrial life, and then the risk of drowning can become an issue.

 

[Andrestorres27]

The fact that you have fish in the tank may get the newts to stay away from the water, thus adapting to terrestrial life, and then the risk of drowning can become an issue.

I thought the bigger issue was that the newts would try to eat the fish which would be fine, as they are small none aggressive fish. Also idk if it's clear from the picture but all the land portion is sloped at the front, and the branches all allow easy access in or out of the water.

 

[Asevernnnn]

They aren't really adapted for eating fish, they are fast enough most of the time.
But the risk is still there, if it wandered into the water section at night, and having no floating plants doesn't help the problem either

 

[Andrestorres27]

They aren't really adapted for eating fish, they are fast enough most of the time.

But the risk is still there, if it wandered into the water section at night, and having no floating plants doesn't help the problem either

Why would the floating plants help more then the land being at a slope? I can get some floating plants if that would be better but the land is at a angle like this >, so some of the land is below the water line.

 

[michael]

First let me say when getting advice about T. marmoratus it would be best to get advice from people that have kept and bred T. marmoratus. It is nice that people want to be helpful but advice from inexperienced enthusiasts may not always be helpful.

Most populations of T. marmoratus in the wild stay on land a good part of the year. It has been my experience that they do best in captivity on land part of the year. This can be accomplished with a 50/50 set up or with two separate setups. I keep my marms in a viquarium setup. Part of the year they are on the land part and part of the year they are in water. Another approach would be to have an aquatic set up for part of the year and a terrestrial set up for part of the year. The difficulty is figuring out when to make the transition from one set up to the other. Most marmoratus will fail if forced to be aquatic year round. High humidity on land can cause skin problems.

It is rarely appropriate to keep fish with salamanders. Your set up might work but I'm not sure the land area has enough hiding spots and is substantial enough for the part of the year they will be on land.

 

[Chinadog]

I think its a good that you are seeking advice before you get your newts, most people don't bother until they have problems, but you seem to have made up your mind about their tank.
When all's sead and done your marbled newts might be able to survive in that set up, even with the fish in there, but its very far from ideal. Newts aren't like fish, they can vote with their feet if things aren't to their liking. In nature most newts will avoid or abandon water bodies where fish are present, so forcing them to share a tank usually means you end up with stressed animals that refuse to go in the water and are constantly trying to escape.
We can advise you how to cheaply and easily create optimal conditions for them, but if a set up where they can just about survive with fish and whatever else is your goal, you're your own, I'm afraid.

 

[Andrestorres27]

First let me say when getting advice about T. marmoratus it would be best to get advice from people that have kept and bred T. marmoratus. It is nice that people want to be helpful but advice from inexperienced enthusiasts may not always be helpful.



Most populations of T. marmoratus in the wild stay on land a good part of the year. It has been my experience that they do best in captivity on land part of the year. This can be accomplished with a 50/50 set up or with two separate setups. I keep my marms in a viquarium setup. Part of the year they are on the land part and part of the year they are in water. Another approach would be to have an aquatic set up for part of the year and a terrestrial set up for part of the year. The difficulty is figuring out when to make the transition from one set up to the other. Most marmoratus will fail if forced to be aquatic year round. High humidity on land can cause skin problems.



It is rarely appropriate to keep fish with salamanders. Your set up might work but I'm not sure the land area has enough hiding spots and is substantial enough for the part of the year they will be on land.

That's definitely why I'm trying to find people hear to see what they have been successful with. I'm going to use the set up I have right now, but can alter it if it would be better for the newts. I can remove fish easily as I have another tank that would be able to support anything I put into this water portion. Also, the picture of the land does not show very well, but there is three logs on the back, as well as a multitude of plants that provide ground cover. What would you say you would try to keep the humidity at?

Not a much better picture but it's the side view of the land

N a partial view that is covered in the other picture.

 

[Andrestorres27]

I'm not apposed to changes and am just simply asking these questions to find out what would be wrong with the design and parameters, because when I have been told 50/50 set ups work and have shown the ideas to breeders that I have talked to they have said that the plan is good for the newts as long as they can easily exist the water. I didn't realize there was a site like this so decided to come and ask questions like I did on dendroboard for my first dart frogs and for my turtle that I got years ago. I just have seem to be getting some contradicting info so I'm just asking why certain things you guys are saying should be done that is all.
Don't mean to act as though I know better, or am taking your info for granted
I do really appreciate the help.

 

[michael]

For the land area their should be spots that are real moist and some that are a little dry. Often if two curved pieces of cork bark are stacked the salamanders will hide in between the two. They will find their favorite spots with the proper humidity. Misting is rarely needed for salamanders. Most often being to humid is more of a problem than to dry if their is access to wet spots. High humidity can cause skin problems.

 

[Andrestorres27]

For the land area their should be spots that are real moist and some that are a little dry. Often if two curved pieces of cork bark are stacked the salamanders will hide in between the two. They will find their favorite spots with the proper humidity. Misting is rarely needed for salamanders. Most often being to humid is more of a problem than to dry if their is access to wet spots. High humidity can cause skin problems.

Would you say any area of cypress mulch would be ok for the drier area or would u use a different substrate, because right now I have abg mix and spag moss, but both of those stay pretty moist.