Fishless cycling query

[sjbrays]

I started a fishless cycle on my 146litre (32gallon) tank about a month ago (16th Jan). I used Dr Timms ammonia to raise ammonia levels. They started at about 4ppm. Went down to 2ppm. I then added ammonia on day 3 as per instructions and they went back up to 4ppm and have stayed steady at that level since. I haven't added ammonia since due to levels not dropping, but did add some Dr Timms one and only on the 23rd and have added a couple of doses of API quick start since to try and kick things into action. Nitrites have stayed at 0ppm and not risen. Nitrates have stayed a steady dark yellow (see pic attached) on an API master kit test. Has my cycle stalled?
I have brown sediment forming at the bottom of the tank - should I remove this? There are unfortunately a few pond snails roaming around which came in on a plant and which I keep removing. I have no sand as my waiting axolotyl is only little (he/she's currently tubbed and is happy in his little tank, but we can't wait to move him to his new home). I have tried changing about 1/3 of the water today to see if it makes a difference (ammonia is now down to 2ppm post change).
I use Prime with new water. The tank was initially started using Colombo aqua start and bacto start (and prime). It wasn't heated at first (thinking of my axolotyl), but has been heated to 80F for the past week or so. I have bubbles on and a superfish aqua-flow XL filter (which again came with the tank). I've had the light off, but the plants are now suffering, so I turned them in again today.
What am I doing wrong?

 

[wolfen]

the filter needs to be a minimum of 150ltrs as most axie tanks have the minimum of substrate and items in the tank for bacteria to grow on/in so the water filter does nearly 100% of the job, with a water change only add a dechlorinator that removes chlorine and nothing more (check label for sodium thiosulfate which is the normal standard chemical to remove chlorine) any addition chemicals that lock/remove ammonia etc.. can effect the filter bacteria and in some cases starve it. good that you are using a heater to warm the water as bacteria multiply better in warm water and more free ammonia is release for the bacteria to eat, make sure the water ph is tested as it needs to be in the 7's (7.4-7.6 when a axie is in there) again 7> means more free ammonia is released for the bacteria to eat, when you test the ammonia you are testing TAN (total ammonia nitrogen) NH3 + NH4, free ammonia (NH3) which is toxic but the bacteria eat it and ammonium (NH4) which is non-toxic but bacteria find it harder to break it down,

 

[sjbrays]

the filter needs to be a minimum of 150ltrs as most axie tanks have the minimum of substrate and items in the tank for bacteria to grow on/in so the water filter does nearly 100% of the job, with a water change only add a dechlorinator that removes chlorine and nothing more (check label for sodium thiosulfate which is the normal standard chemical to remove chlorine) any addition chemicals that lock/remove ammonia etc.. can effect the filter bacteria and in some cases starve it. good that you are using a heater to warm the water as bacteria multiply better in warm water and more free ammonia is release for the bacteria to eat, make sure the water ph is tested as it needs to be in the 7's (7.4-7.6 when a axie is in there) again 7> means more free ammonia is released for the bacteria to eat, when you test the ammonia you are testing TAN (total ammonia nitrogen) NH3 + NH4, free ammonia (NH3) which is toxic but the bacteria eat it and ammonium (NH4) which is non-toxic but bacteria find it harder to break it down,

I'm using the API master test kit. Using Prime when adding/changing water. The filter is good for up to 200l.

 

[wolfen]

The filter that you are using is 100 litre > 200 litre, when choose a filter for a axie tank it is best to see it as 200 litre with normal substrate/plants etc.. 100 litre bare bones axie tank, I say this because in a normal set up the gravel, rocks and anything else in the tank play a major role in bacteria cycle where as a axolotl tank is minimal so the filter plays a major role (up to nearly 100% of the bacteria housing), might be a idea to get a air driven sponge filter as well.
Prime claims to detox ammonia and the only way to do that is making it into ammonium which is harder for bacteria to digest (there some debate on the claims when it comes to nitrite and nitrate, some say it works/some say it's snake oil) if it works then you are locking to ammonia etc away (effectively starving the bacteria, defeats the whole reason to cycle), and if it doesn't work then it is just an expensive dechlorinator, (paying for a name) personally I won't touch anything that says it will alter the the ammonia unless there is a issue with the tank, also don't use conditioner that have stress relief, slime coat protect at it can effect the gill filaments this is especially important with aloe vera.
Liquid tests are the best to use to be sure where as strips are good as a quick rough idea.

 

[sjbrays]

The filter that you are using is 100 litre > 200 litre, when choose a filter for a axie tank it is best to see it as 200 litre with normal substrate/plants etc.. 100 litre bare bones axie tank, I say this because in a normal set up the gravel, rocks and anything else in the tank play a major role in bacteria cycle where as a axolotl tank is minimal so the filter plays a major role (up to nearly 100% of the bacteria housing), might be a idea to get a air driven sponge filter as well.
Prime claims to detox ammonia and the only way to do that is making it into ammonium which is harder for bacteria to digest (there some debate on the claims when it comes to nitrite and nitrate, some say it works/some say it's snake oil) if it works then you are locking to ammonia etc away (effectively starving the bacteria, defeats the whole reason to cycle), and if it doesn't work then it is just an expensive dechlorinator, (paying for a name) personally I won't touch anything that says it will alter the the ammonia unless there is a issue with the tank, also don't use conditioner that have stress relief, slime coat protect at it can effect the gill filaments this is especially important with aloe vera.
Liquid tests are the best to use to be sure where as strips are good as a quick rough idea.

Thank you