Fire salamander hasn't eaten for a month

[raf802]

I got four fire salamanders back in early March. Their enclosure is bio-active with a coco fibre + cypress mulch bedding covered in leaf litter and on top of a drainage layer. There is a water bowl in one corner that's about half full to prevent drowning and several hides around the enclosure. The temperature is around 15-17 degrees Celcius and the humidity is usually 99/100% but has dropped to 60% in the past; the bedding is damp and not soaked.

Three of the salamanders have eaten for me only once and the fourth hasn't at all and is looking thin compared to the others.
Tong feeding is unsuccessful, I think they are scared of the tongs, so I place the worms in front of where the salamanders are hidden in hopes they will see them and eat.

I have read dozens of posts on this topic in this forum as well as others and tried the suggestions mentioned but haven't had much success.
I have tried feeding them a variety of foods (about a week between feedings) such as crickets, mealworms, waxworms, formulated paste and earthworms. I have had the most (only) success with earthworms.

A lot the time, the salamanders look interested in the worm but either don't do anything or move too slow, allowing the worm to dig into the soil.
Other times, the salamanders bite at the worm but miss (some don't even "lunge" - just open/close mouth). When this happens they give up after the first attempt and walk off.

I will try dangling a cut piece of a worm in front of their hides that is the size of their head. Currently the worms have been just shorter than the salamander in length.

Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated. The first image is of the salamander which hasn't eaten.

 

[John]

What ventilation do they have? I personally would remove them and put them on moist (not very wet) paper towel with a cork hide in one of the following. Keep them about 18-19 Celsius and see if they will eat waxworms or dusted crickets in a few days. Don't tong feed them, just let a small few insects go in there at night and check the next day.

This is the exact item and size. And it's not a "faunarium" or cricket keeper.

Exo Terra Breeding Box, Large: Exo Terra: Amazon.co.uk: Pet Supplies

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy Exo Terra Breeding Box, Large at Amazon UK.

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[raf802]

What ventilation do they have? I personally would remove them and put them on moist (not very wet) paper towel with a cork hide in one of the following. Keep them about 18-19 Celsius and see if they will eat waxworms or dusted crickets in a few days. Don't tong feed them, just let a small few insects go in there at night and check the next day.

This is the exact item and size. And it's not a "faunarium" or cricket keeper.

Exo Terra Breeding Box, Large: Exo Terra: Amazon.co.uk: Pet Supplies

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy Exo Terra Breeding Box, Large at Amazon UK.

www.amazon.co.uk

Hi John, thank you for the reply!

They are in a plastic tub with a lipped lid that isn't airtight. There is a "n" shaped gap between the lid and tub about 6mm thick all around (mister hoses could fit through).

I do not have a cork hide but I have coconut hides, will those suffice?
I will try some (15-20mm) waxworms this week first and then the (8-12mm) crickets.

What is the difference between the breeding box and the "faunariums"? I can only see less vents on the clear plastic.
Due to the current situation those large breeding boxes are sold out. I found this which is similar but I think it is a "faunarium". What do you suggest?
Komodo Plastic Terrarium:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00692AZQW/ref=dp_cerb_3?th=1

Many thanks!

 

[John]

Hi John, thank you for the reply!

They are in a plastic tub with a lipped lid that isn't airtight. There is a "n" shaped gap between the lid and tub about 6mm thick all around (mister hoses could fit through).

I do not have a cork hide but I have coconut hides, will those suffice?
I will try some (15-20mm) waxworms this week first and then the (8-12mm) crickets.

What is the difference between the breeding box and the "faunariums"? I can only see less vents on the clear plastic.
Due to the current situation those large breeding boxes are sold out. I found this which is similar but I think it is a "faunarium". What do you suggest?
Komodo Plastic Terrarium:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00692AZQW/ref=dp_cerb_3?th=1

Many thanks!

Sounds like you're trying to keep them like dart frogs and that's just not going to work long term. Fire salamanders need good ventilation.

The vents in breeding boxes are all in the top and sides of the lid. The sides of the lid are the real innovation.

You need to radically rehouse them ASAP if you want a chance to save them.

 

[raf802]

Sounds like you're trying to keep them like dart frogs and that's just not going to work long term. Fire salamanders need good ventilation.

The vents in breeding boxes are all in the top and sides of the lid. The sides of the lid are the real innovation.

You need to radically rehouse them ASAP if you want a chance to save them.

OK, I've put them in the temporary enclosure with the moist paper towels. I will make a lot more ventilation holes in the big enclosure; is there a way to know if ventilation is suitable? I have attached a picture of it with green tongs for scale. Besides the ventilation, is there anything else obviously wrong in the image?

Thanks again!

 

[John]

OK, I've put them in the temporary enclosure with the moist paper towels. I will make a lot more ventilation holes in the big enclosure; is there a way to know if ventilation is suitable? I have attached a picture of it with green tongs for scale. Besides the ventilation, is there anything else obviously wrong in the image?

Thanks again!

It's going to be very hard for them to find food easily in there if the animals are not doing well.

 

[John]

It's going to be very hard for them to find food easily in there if the animals are not doing well.

On how much ventilation, it's not a hard and fast rule - but more is better than less for that's worth.