Deadpixels
New member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2016
- Messages
- 12
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Halifax, Nova Scotia
- Country
- Canada
APOLOGIES AS THIS MAY BE A BIT LONG! MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR READING:
I'm a utter newbie to the world of cycling. I've had fish in the past, but I had no idea that you were supposed to cycle the tank before hand surprisingly they survived quite a long time however. I do not have any axolotls or fish in the tank currently. I've been doing my reading on the nitrogen cycle and am following the information given from this site ... I am doing a fishless cycle using fish food, and have been cycling since the beginning of September. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit to test the ph, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
I also used Nutrafin Cycle biological aquarium supplement. I didn't read anything about how cycling works with this stuff, so I'm probably WAAAAY over my head here. But, I was hoping some of you veteran aquarium cycling people could help me out.
Does using a cycling agent/biological supplement like Nutrafin Cycle or ATM Colony Freshwater skew your test readings? I know it establishes the nitrifying bacteria almost immediately, so would that make ammonia and nitrites go way down and nitrates go up? If so, my readings aren't looking right. My ammonia is at 0.50ppm, my nitrites are 0ppm and my nitrates are approximately 5ppm, leaning to less. That seems off to me at this stage in the game. With that many nitrates, shouldn't the ammonia and nitrites be zero? I'm baffled here.
Also, I know you have to feed the nitrifying bacteria or they're going to die off and you're back at square one. How much ammonia do they need on a consistent basis? Is fish food is enough for that? Should I maybe just use pure ammonia (if I can find it) instead? Is all this moot if I continue adding the biological supplement at each water change?
Furthermore, does the PH value or the water temp change how the cycling works? I know if the PH is too low, it can stall the cycle. Would this happen if the PH is too high? My PH is about 7.6 right now and I know that's high in general and I need to get it back down, but is it high enough to stall the cycle? And my tank temp was down at about 64 degrees Fahrenheit for quite a while and then we were hit with a bit of a heat wave and it's come back up to 72 degrees Fahrenheit for the last couple of days.
I'm sorry for the question overload. I'm showing my naivety here for sure. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all so much!
I'm a utter newbie to the world of cycling. I've had fish in the past, but I had no idea that you were supposed to cycle the tank before hand surprisingly they survived quite a long time however. I do not have any axolotls or fish in the tank currently. I've been doing my reading on the nitrogen cycle and am following the information given from this site ... I am doing a fishless cycle using fish food, and have been cycling since the beginning of September. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit to test the ph, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
I also used Nutrafin Cycle biological aquarium supplement. I didn't read anything about how cycling works with this stuff, so I'm probably WAAAAY over my head here. But, I was hoping some of you veteran aquarium cycling people could help me out.
Does using a cycling agent/biological supplement like Nutrafin Cycle or ATM Colony Freshwater skew your test readings? I know it establishes the nitrifying bacteria almost immediately, so would that make ammonia and nitrites go way down and nitrates go up? If so, my readings aren't looking right. My ammonia is at 0.50ppm, my nitrites are 0ppm and my nitrates are approximately 5ppm, leaning to less. That seems off to me at this stage in the game. With that many nitrates, shouldn't the ammonia and nitrites be zero? I'm baffled here.
Also, I know you have to feed the nitrifying bacteria or they're going to die off and you're back at square one. How much ammonia do they need on a consistent basis? Is fish food is enough for that? Should I maybe just use pure ammonia (if I can find it) instead? Is all this moot if I continue adding the biological supplement at each water change?
Furthermore, does the PH value or the water temp change how the cycling works? I know if the PH is too low, it can stall the cycle. Would this happen if the PH is too high? My PH is about 7.6 right now and I know that's high in general and I need to get it back down, but is it high enough to stall the cycle? And my tank temp was down at about 64 degrees Fahrenheit for quite a while and then we were hit with a bit of a heat wave and it's come back up to 72 degrees Fahrenheit for the last couple of days.
I'm sorry for the question overload. I'm showing my naivety here for sure. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all so much!