grius
New member
Hello.
I recently started a huge cooler project for three terrariums that I built a while ago. I have had a similiar build in mind several years and finally I can try my idea for real.
I wanted it well insulated and whent for a sandwich method. Outside material is 12mm plywood, 50mm XPS insulation and on topp of that so called formplywood, a great wood that can handle most weather and a material I have been using for terrariums maybe 10years.
Because I did not want to many skrew holes on the inside I had to skrew all wood from underneath, all pieces that stands on the bottom will say. It took a while and lucky enough no cracks(with bad skrews it is easy when you only have 12 mm to attach in)
First I saw all studs which took maybe 2ours, and then only two days to finish the base( pic 11) Much easier to assambly than exspected even though 39 wood pieces+ many meter beam for stand etc to attach.
Pvc pipes to conect the freezer is the only thing left, and I hope the post office will find my lost parcel that should have arrived last week. They are now trying to track it for me.
This is the freezer cooling method as you can see in the last picture. I tried a huge cooler build a few years ago but did not think the desighn through much, but this time with great insulation material in walls, front parts, whole topp and under the wood cabin I am certain it will work great. This freezer also have a good freezing capacity which I guess is very important.
Inner dimensions: 250x65x52cm. There are space in the whole roof, behind and 3cm between terrariums, both for better air circulation but also for coold to reach everywhere.
I attached studs from the outside to press foam in place.
Later I decided to make the lid more steady and skrewd a few studs here and there.
This is what i have done last couple of days, sawn/painted the framing( strips??) and made the door. Upper front is also insulated/sandwich method.
Bottle is only a 0,5 liter.
T5 6500k fluorescent in place( much more yellow in picture than real life, also not as bright snf if dtill to bright that is easy to cover upp alittle to make my salamanders happy) This product is water proof and could therefor be attached on the inside which saved me lots of work.
The cord goes out through the wall and sealed around with silicone as every joint, skrew hole and edges. I almost empty a whole silicone tub to really be sure no moisture can penetrate into the wood.
If you have questions just ask
I recently started a huge cooler project for three terrariums that I built a while ago. I have had a similiar build in mind several years and finally I can try my idea for real.
I wanted it well insulated and whent for a sandwich method. Outside material is 12mm plywood, 50mm XPS insulation and on topp of that so called formplywood, a great wood that can handle most weather and a material I have been using for terrariums maybe 10years.
Because I did not want to many skrew holes on the inside I had to skrew all wood from underneath, all pieces that stands on the bottom will say. It took a while and lucky enough no cracks(with bad skrews it is easy when you only have 12 mm to attach in)
First I saw all studs which took maybe 2ours, and then only two days to finish the base( pic 11) Much easier to assambly than exspected even though 39 wood pieces+ many meter beam for stand etc to attach.
Pvc pipes to conect the freezer is the only thing left, and I hope the post office will find my lost parcel that should have arrived last week. They are now trying to track it for me.
This is the freezer cooling method as you can see in the last picture. I tried a huge cooler build a few years ago but did not think the desighn through much, but this time with great insulation material in walls, front parts, whole topp and under the wood cabin I am certain it will work great. This freezer also have a good freezing capacity which I guess is very important.
Inner dimensions: 250x65x52cm. There are space in the whole roof, behind and 3cm between terrariums, both for better air circulation but also for coold to reach everywhere.
I attached studs from the outside to press foam in place.
Later I decided to make the lid more steady and skrewd a few studs here and there.
This is what i have done last couple of days, sawn/painted the framing( strips??) and made the door. Upper front is also insulated/sandwich method.
Bottle is only a 0,5 liter.
T5 6500k fluorescent in place( much more yellow in picture than real life, also not as bright snf if dtill to bright that is easy to cover upp alittle to make my salamanders happy) This product is water proof and could therefor be attached on the inside which saved me lots of work.
If you have questions just ask
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