Comprehensive Setup and Knowledge Refining Questions

the1banana

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Apologies in advance for how ludicrously verbose this request and question is going to be. The issue is that, despite doing significant research, conflicting information results in it being a bit difficult to pin down the exact things that are correct. For instance, when I first purchased Puck about three or four years ago, I was under the impression a shallow 20-gallon tank with two hides is good accommodation but turns out, that's the bare minimum for an adult axolotl. Similarly, I thought bloodworms were a good, nutritious food source, but turns out those are meant for a treat, and earthworms/nightcrawlers are perfect for a healthy diet. I want to eliminate all uncertainty in my care. To that end, if you see anything I've said here that's wrong, or needs correction, please let me know. I want to ensure that everything is absolutely flawless for my little guy, Puck. I love him. Here's a picture of him (provided also in case you see any medical issues, I once had a brief scare with red leg bacteria which turned out to be just him scraping himself against a part of the tank which healed quickly. Of note, his gills are a little small, and one of his feather crowns is a bit dinky and floppy, which I was told is attributed to genetics).

My current goal is to create the ultimate home for Puck, as well as to ensure maximal health and quality of life. Right now, my apartment's conditions do not permit a tank above 20 gallons, so I want to make sure I have everything down and prepared when I move in November.

There are a few issues with this. You'll notice that the current home has sand as a substrate. Not bad, but not great, either. I'm aware that gravel is the worst, a bare bottom can be slippery and stress out the axolotl, and sand is passable, but can still be ingested, so for the new tank, I'm going to use stones. The question I have with that is: A, should I be concerned about the stones damaging the glass bottom? Should I pad the bottom with sand to avoid cracking the glass? And B, I imagine cleaning waste is harder, is there a particular method to manage it better?
Secondly, I'm having issues finding a suitable new tank. I've seen some absolutely beautiful rimless square, shallow tanks meant for coral reef setups, and while I think they'd work fine, they don't seem to come with a lid (as I heard axolotls are prone to hopping out of the aquarium entirely sometimes). Are there any tanks that you could recommend, or is this something I'd have to construct on my own? If the latter, do you have any foolproof guides? I'm awful at craft/construction. Also, what size would be best? 40 gallons? 60 gallons? He will be living alone (axolotls aren't sociable and may be territorial, so I know to avoid having more than one in a tank). On a similar topic, I'd rather not waste the old tank I have, and I heard I could repurpose it as a sump, but I'm also completely lost on how to set something like that up. Lastly, my current tank makes use of a sponge filter, an Artica 1/10 HP aquatic chiller, and a Marina Slim Filter S10. While the chiller can support up to sixty or even eighty gallons of water according to the manufacturer, I'm concerned that the sponge filter and Marina filter would be sufficient for a larger tank. Will I need a new filter, and if so, which one? Lastly, I'm aware that going from one tank to another can result in shock from the difference in the water quality. Beyond using as much of the old aquarium water as possible in the new tank when I transfer him, is there anything else I should do to mitigate shock from the difference in water quality?
Now, the topic of hides. I've heard of using various things from artificially created ones (like the ones I use now) to large stones, to driftwood. I'm aware that you need to boil the driftwood to allow it to sink and to kill any parasites on it. I know PVC pipe is also favored among people. Is there anything else I should know in terms of prepping items before placing them in a tank? Are there constructed hides with paint/chemicals that I should watch for and avoid?
Next, plants. I really wanted to set up some plants in a similar manner to this video here, since apparently, axolotls love to root around plants and it helps with the nitrate cycle. But try as I might, every single plant I've tried to set up in there has slowly and horribly died over time. I suspect the minimal light I have in the environment plays a part in this. Are there plants you would recommend? Do I need to do something different to ensure they can stay alive, and I can properly blanket the bottom like that? And if I'm using river stones, how can I "plant" the plants, and clean the tank without uprooting them?
Lastly, water parameters. I'm familiar with all the baselines. I have a chiller keeping the tank between 60-64 F (15.5 C - 17.5 C). Nitrites are kept at 0, Ammonia < 0.25 ppm, Nitrates < 40 ppm and pH can be 6.5-8.0, ideally 7.4-7.6, which I try to achieve using Seachem's Acid Buffer/Alkaline Buffer/Equilibrium. Similarly, KH should be 3-8 degrees and GH 7-14 degrees, which is a little harder to manage. But there's something called Holtfreter's solution, and I'm a bit unclear if it's required and how to integrate it into this.

Lastly, in miscellany, as I know axolotls are sensitive to light due to lacking eyelids, I keep my axolotl in my windowless bedroom, so not much light gets in. On the topic of food, I feed him an earthworm every other day. There are times when he simply does not want to eat it. He has gone anywhere from eating every other day to eating once a week. I was rather alarmed with the latter, but he seems fine. I replace a small portion of water every time he poops, and perform a 10-15% water change every week, using Tetra's AquaSafe plus to mitigate chlorination (I also take water parameters during the big water change). The Marina S10 filter takes two filters, and I swap one out every month (not both, as to allow a natural bacteria presence). Please let me know if there are red flags for anything in what I'm doing.

Thanks for your time. I've highlighted the pertinent questions/inquiries, but if you have anything you want to add that I am ignorant of, please do so. I'd rather be grilled for it now, than pay for it later. As I said, I love the little guy.
 

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in an aquarium the ammonia should be zero, although a small amount ie.. 0.25ppm isn't harmful it does show that the bacterial breakdown isn't working as well as it should.
also if you are going to test after a water change wait at least 24hrs as the chlorine conversion can cause false readings.
I don't know what size sponge filtration you are using but the Marina S10 is way too small for an axolotl tank, looking at the specs for the filter I would be tempted to scrap the pads and pack it with ceramic bio-media instead to increase it's biological capacity.
originally 10 gallon was the bare minimum size tank but because of the size that axolotls can grow to it is more humane to have 20 gallon as bare minimum.
holtfreters solution can either be pre-made/mixed and then added to dechlorinated water before being adding to the tank/tub or the chemicals can be added to dechlorinated water before adding to the tank/tub (I used to pre-make the solution where as now i just add the chemicals in the required amounts to the water as needed, I also add magnesium sulphate).
100% holtfreters is used in cases of injury/disease etc.., 50% holtfreters is used as a permanent water conditioner and preventative. for more info.. Axolotls - Requirements & Water Conditions in Captivity and https://ambystoma.uky.edu/genetic-s...Issues-1-12/archive/Issue 3/09-16brothers.pdf
best to test the kh/gh at tap, low kh (carbonates) will cause even good ph to drop once nitrates are produced, bicarbonate of soda in holtfreters improves kh, low gh (calcium, magnesium) can cause anaemia and other issues, the calcium chloride in holtfreters will improve the gh and magnesium sulphate which is also popular to be added also improves gh. if the kh is good and the water is hard (this is caused by calcium carbonate ie.. limescale) then bicarbonate of soda and calcium chloride (combined make calcium carbonate) aren't needed but it is still useful to add magnesium sulphate.
if holtfreters is used then a buffer isn't required.
axolotls have three ways to breath 1. skin, 2. gills, 3. rudimentary lungs, because of this anything that can coat the skin or gills such as stress coat etc.. isn't advisable and in some cases such as aloe vera can be harmful.
the sand you have in your tank at the moment will be playing a large part in your biological filtration, by removing it you will be damaging the filtration.
although axolotls are nocturnal this doesn't mean that lights can't be used, provided they have hides/caves etc.. lights are fine and have even been used in labs at 12hrs on 12hrs off to simulate daytime and nighttime especially when it come to breeding.
because axolotls like a slight brackish hard water most aquarium plants are unable to cope although there are some that do, such as java, sagittaria, duckweed.
anything can be used as a cave/hide provided it's 1. dark, 2. large enough, 3. doesn't leach into the water.
any type of rock can be used provided they are bigger than an axolotls mouth, most places say 1 1/2 inches although 2 inches is better to be on the safe side, limestone rocks are good for buffering the kh/ph, pumice rocks can be used for biological filtration, there are even eco-rocks that are also used for biological filtration, slate can be used both for walking on and stacked as caves.
to grow plants where there is no substrate the plants have to be glued/tied on, anubias and java are ideal for this.
as to food it's each to their own really, some prefer worms, some frozen foods, some live foods and some pellets, the main thing is the axolotl is healthy and thriving.
 
in an aquarium the ammonia should be zero, although a small amount ie.. 0.25ppm isn't harmful it does show that the bacterial breakdown isn't working as well as it should.
Noted. When I test, it is always 0.
also if you are going to test after a water change wait at least 24hrs as the chlorine conversion can cause false readings.
I genuinely did not know this. Noted.
I don't know what size sponge filtration you are using but the Marina S10 is way too small for an axolotl tank, looking at the specs for the filter I would be tempted to scrap the pads and pack it with ceramic bio-media instead to increase it's biological capacity.
The sponge filter is very similar to this, I have an air pump that runs to it.
I am not at all familiar with ceramic bio-media. How does that work?
holtfreters solution can either be pre-made/mixed and then added to dechlorinated water before being adding to the tank/tub or the chemicals can be added to dechlorinated water before adding to the tank/tub (I used to pre-make the solution where as now i just add the chemicals in the required amounts to the water as needed, I also add magnesium sulphate).
100% holtfreters is used in cases of injury/disease etc.., 50% holtfreters is used as a permanent water conditioner and preventative. for more info.. Axolotls - Requirements & Water Conditions in Captivity and https://ambystoma.uky.edu/genetic-s...Issues-1-12/archive/Issue 3/09-16brothers.pdf
I'll give those a thorough read. Do you have a particular set of chemicals that you typically order? Where should I source them?
best to test the kh/gh at tap, low kh (carbonates) will cause even good ph to drop once nitrates are produced, bicarbonate of soda in holtfreters improves kh, low gh (calcium, magnesium) can cause anaemia and other issues, the calcium chloride in holtfreters will improve the gh and magnesium sulphate which is also popular to be added also improves gh. if the kh is good and the water is hard (this is caused by calcium carbonate ie.. limescale) then bicarbonate of soda and calcium chloride (combined make calcium carbonate) aren't needed but it is still useful to add magnesium sulphate.
The testing of kh/gh at tap is smart, I'll bear it in mind.
if holtfreters is used then a buffer isn't required.
Buffer as in the anti-chlorination stuff I use when I swap out water?
the sand you have in your tank at the moment will be playing a large part in your biological filtration, by removing it you will be damaging the filtration.
Noted. I'll move it over to the new tank when I set it up.
although axolotls are nocturnal this doesn't mean that lights can't be used, provided they have hides/caves etc.. lights are fine and have even been used in labs at 12hrs on 12hrs off to simulate daytime and nighttime especially when it come to breeding.
I genuinely was not aware of this; I was told that since they're sensitive to light, it should be avoided as much as possible. Do you have any low-intensity timer lights you'd recommend?
because axolotls like a slight brackish hard water most aquarium plants are unable to cope although there are some that do, such as java, sagittaria, duckweed.
I've heard about the duckweed, and I will look into java and sagittaria.
anything can be used as a cave/hide provided it's 1. dark, 2. large enough, 3. doesn't leach into the water.
I always ensure 1 and 2, and try to do 3, but I'm not sure what the criterion for that is. I've used a lizard half-log hide for his current tank setup, and it didn't appear that there were any materials that could leech into the water. But how can you tell? What stuff should I look for?
any type of rock can be used provided they are bigger than an axolotls mouth, most places say 1 1/2 inches although 2 inches is better to be on the safe side, limestone rocks are good for buffering the kh/ph, pumice rocks can be used for biological filtration, there are even eco-rocks that are also used for biological filtration, slate can be used both for walking on and stacked as caves.
Oh, there's more complexity to that as well. I'll definitely look into that and do more research into it.
to grow plants where there is no substrate the plants have to be glued/tied on, anubias and java are ideal for this.
Glue? I didn't know that was even a thing. Thanks for letting me know. That said, if I tied/glued the plants to the river stones... how can I thoroughly clean the tank without damaging them? Or is it not necessary to really thoroughly clean the tank, just getting most of the waste out is sufficient?
as to food it's each to their own really, some prefer worms, some frozen foods, some live foods and some pellets, the main thing is the axolotl is healthy and thriving.
Noted, he seems to be healthy and doing fine with earthworms.

Thank you so much for taking the time to type out all of this, I've learned a lot and will be adjusting my current aquarium with all this in mind, particularly with regards to the water chems. That said, do you have any suggestions on good shallow-depth, lidded 40/60 gallon tanks and a suitable set of filters for it, as well as how to set up a sump? Or is this something I'm going to have to construct myself?
Also, open to other people's takes as well. Apologies again for the wall of text.
 
ceramic media works the same way as pumice or you could think of it as similar to hard sponge, the ceramic is filled with thousands of tiny pockets which makes the surface area high allowing a large bacteria colony to grow in a small space.
the chemicals I add per week when I do a water change are.. sodium thiosulphate (water dechlorinator), sodium chloride (salt), potassium sulphate, magnesium sulphate (epsom salt), calcium carbonate (clouds the water but clears quickly with an external filter, replaces calcium chloride and bicarbonate of soda, added at the same amount as calcium chloride would be), I also add humic acid which is a tannin and give the water a brown/yellowish tint.
buffer as in Seachem's Acid Buffer/Alkaline Buffer/Equilibrium
light wise just normal led baton lights on a timer.
main thing to be aware of in when the ornament/hide/cave has been painted for example a while back there was issues with people putting spongebob pineapple house in tanks only to find that the paint leach harmful chemicals into the water, also there was also cases of people using fake grass and then finding that it was coated in a mold deterrent which was harmful.
provided the filtration can cope a small amount of waste isn't harmful just unsightly in a bare bones tanks.
as for filters I tend to buy cheap filters and alter them depending on how they are being used.
sump tanks require either work and research to be done or having them pre-built, although thought would still be required regarding pipework and filtration media ie.. moving bed media, debris trap, run off.
 
Got it, thanks for all the insightful feedback.
I guess I'll look into possible tank setups and go from there.
 
Tetra AquaSafe contains aloe vera which can cause rapid slime coat growth in amphibians causing them to suffocate. Use TetraFauna AquaSafe instead as that is specifically made for salamanders.
 
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