Axolotl coffee table advice, a bit of logistical trouble

[digimattd]

I hope that the title was catch enough for everyone

I'll be moving into a new apartment for my senior year of college, and so to add something interesting to my place I decided to make an aquarium/coffee table combo (twenty gallon long tank). I currently have my two juvie axolotl in a ten gallon tank, which is unfortunately not completely cycled (d'oh). I just ordered seachem prime which should be here within the next two days, though for the meantime everyone looks alright.

I've been doing between 20-25% water changes daily and keep the AC and a fan on near the tank to keep it around 65-70 (I plan to work on a link of computer fans once I finish the new twenty gallon but that's off topic). Anyway, while following a guide to make a glass coffee table, I planned to light the aquarium from below. I use a bed of sand though, so I was instead going to opt for a single light below the glass portion and above the tank. Unfortunately I did not consider above tank lighting until after cutting the base of the table so that's just a bit too tight of a squeeze (I could alter the tank hoods I have, though I had a better idea). A few questions I have are as follows:

How soon do you suppose I could move my juvies into the twenty gallon long? I currently have an old fluval 4+ running inside the tank to get something started since I have my main filter with my axies. I was wondering if I could transfer everything into the twenty gallon once the seachem prime arrives so long as I used all of the same sand and water from the current ten gallon. In addition I have ordered a few live plants which I'll have added to the twenty gallon immediately. As far as lighting, I was curious if anyone's tried making their own fixtures and if so if they could lend advice. Sorry about the rant, it's late and I'm tired from running around all day. Below I've posted a link to an album of some pictures of the coffee table. Excuse the mess in the room, I go on tangents when I start to build something and clean the mess afterwards. Thanks! Also obligatory tank shot in the album as well!

Photo Album - Imgur

 

[Quentari]

Once the water is cycled they can go straight in as far as I know.

 

[LittleFrog]

Once the water is cycled they can go straight in as far as I know.

Agreed, although you'll need to remove the gravel in that tank. Gravel is a big no no for axolotls, they'll swallow it when feeding and it'll cause an obstruction, which can kill them. If they're under 5 inches, you should have a bare bottom tank, and over 5 inches, you can use sand, so long as it is very fine and smooth sand.

 

[emmyk]

Be careful with the lighting though, make sure it isn't too bright for the little guys because when its below, they can't get away from it in their hides):

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[pookiewn]

I like your idea, however it would concern me with the vibrations that would be constantly happening around and on top of the tank. I would worry that this would stress the axes out and cause health problems.

For the lights I would find a way to mount some LEDs to the top, you don't seem to have a lot of space for air circulation and already have heat issues.

Please don't use the prime to fix ammonia issues, cycle the tank fully and use the prime only as a dechlorinator. It's best to have a stable tank and filter, without relying on chemicals to fix it for you.

Sorry for being a scrooge, as I said the concept is great!

 

[digimattd]

Agreed, although you'll need to remove the gravel in that tank. Gravel is a big no no for axolotls, they'll swallow it when feeding and it'll cause an obstruction, which can kill them. If they're under 5 inches, you should have a bare bottom tank, and over 5 inches, you can use sand, so long as it is very fine and smooth sand.

No gravel in tank. It's a very, very fine sand made by Nature's Ocean. After much reading I decided on it since it met the requirements of soft surface and no water alteration while looking great. Don't want to aggravate their little feet.

Be careful with the lighting though, make sure it isn't too bright for the little guys because when its below, they can't get away from it in their hides):

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Absolutely. That's why I'll be providing multiple hides and low power lights.

I like your idea, however it would concern me with the vibrations that would be constantly happening around and on top of the tank. I would worry that this would stress the axes out and cause health problems.

For the lights I would find a way to mount some LEDs to the top, you don't seem to have a lot of space for air circulation and already have heat issues.

Please don't use the prime to fix ammonia issues, cycle the tank fully and use the prime only as a dechlorinator. It's best to have a stable tank and filter, without relying on chemicals to fix it for you.

Sorry for being a scrooge, as I said the concept is great!

I found a promising idea which I should be able to work with, it'll just be a matter of cost (not really). I'll post later when I get to my computer as this is all from my phone. Also why not prime? I'd rather it for now since it can't hurt to lock the ammonia. I added Safestart by Tetra today just to boost the already present bacteria. I don't want to take any chances since I made a mistake with the wrong testing kit initially. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[maghan6]

Using prime to reduce ammonia can starve the beneficial bacteria and crash the cycle in the tank. I use prime myself without any problems, but it has to be measured accurately. Once the tank is cycled, ammonia shouldn't really be an issue anyway. Just be sure to create a maintenance schedule and stick to it. For my 40g, I replace ten gallons of water weekly while syphoning. It is also a good idea to test your water regularly to check for any spike in ammonia or nitrite levels.

 

[digimattd]

Using prime to reduce ammonia can starve the beneficial bacteria and crash the cycle in the tank. I use prime myself without any problems, but it has to be measured accurately. Once the tank is cycled, ammonia shouldn't really be an issue anyway. Just be sure to create a maintenance schedule and stick to it. For my 40g, I replace ten gallons of water weekly while syphoning. It is also a good idea to test your water regularly to check for any spike in ammonia or nitrite levels.

That is not something I was not aware of. I was under the impression that it would just turn the ammonia into ammonium which was less toxic but functioned exactly the same as ammonia for the cycling process. I have been keeping up with 10-20% changes daily in my ten gallon and am continuing to cycle the twenty in the meantime. I test every other day for ammonia and keep a chart. It's been under 1ppm up until a few days ago where it briefly looked to be 2ppm. I most definitely have learned not to rush testing. Excitement is no excuse for mismanagement. Thanks guys.