Aquarium salt to protect against nitrites, and adding TSS to complete cycle

[Naok]

I can admit I’ve made a mistake and it worries me a lot. I should’ve done more research prior to bringing Pepper my little 5in axolotl home. Two and a half weeks ago I got all the pieces and started her care. Within the first week her gills got fluffier than they were initially so I figured all was going well. Finally now I’ve begun monitoring with more precision after figuring out despite all I was given I wasn’t guaranteed cycled tank (yes this is what I was told to make the sale at the aquarium store for pepper and all of her amenities). So I figured when her gills started curling it was from too much ammonia. So as I waited for my full test kit to come in I used strips (though they didn’t include ammonia) and everything read as fine. Even before that when I got it tested at the store after having her for a week I was told it was fine. Anyways after her gills began to curl just the slightest bit I started doing weekly water changes of 25%, added an ammonia neutralizer to the filter, and added these little gel balls that claimed to help kick start bacteria growth.
Long story short my ammonia is fine but my nitrites are through the roof. So I believe I’m halfway to having a fully cycled tank. Pepper is eating, growing, seemingly fine, but I’m still very concerned and I just want what’s best for her. So what I’m trying to figure out is the best course of action from here.
Do I add TSS to try and get the cycle to finish faster, do I add aquarium salt to help cope with the nitrite while I try to fix this, do I do a 50% change and then hold off on changes for a few days?
What do you all think? Pictures are from the day this post was made.

 

[AMurry24537]

Wow, those levels are really high! I honestly don't know about other methods of accelerating the cycling of the tank, but based on those levels, you should probably tub your axolotl immediately and do 100% water changes.

To continue the tank's cycling without this source of ammonia, I would buy some liquid ammonia and use it to keep the progress you have made from crashing. In the cycling process, axolotls (all aquatic creatures really) produce ammonia, which eventually converts into nitrites, which eventually converts to nitrates, which are removed with water changes or absorbed by aquarium plants. If you simply take out the source, the tank will crash, so you have to add ammonia without your axolotl being there. I typically replace 30-45% of my water in a weekly change with my fully cycled tank. In a fully cycled tank, all three of these should be 0.

In your axolotl's tub, you'll be doing 100% water changes every day to keep any of these from building up at all.

On another note, keep in mind that curled gills can also be a sign of too strong water flow. What kind of filter do you have? Sponge filters are the best for axolotls.

I noticed that you have sand as a substrate. That's not a bad thing (I assume you know not to use gravel), but sand does come with the potential problem of trapping pockets of ammonia, which are deadly. Sand also can get really messy while trying to clean it. This is why many axolotl owners go for a bare bottom tank--as long as the water flow isn't too strong, this should be perfectly fine for an axolotl.

On yet another note, it looks from the picture like your axolotl may have some form of dwarfism! It could just be the angle, but it's a strong possibility.

 

[Naok]

Wow, those levels are really high! I honestly don't know about other methods of accelerating the cycling of the tank, but based on those levels, you should probably tub your axolotl immediately and do 100% water changes.

To continue the tank's cycling without this source of ammonia, I would buy some liquid ammonia and use it to keep the progress you have made from crashing. In the cycling process, axolotls (all aquatic creatures really) produce ammonia, which eventually converts into nitrites, which eventually converts to nitrates, which are removed with water changes or absorbed by aquarium plants. If you simply take out the source, the tank will crash, so you have to add ammonia without your axolotl being there. I typically replace 30-45% of my water in a weekly change with my fully cycled tank. In a fully cycled tank, all three of these should be 0.

In your axolotl's tub, you'll be doing 100% water changes every day to keep any of these from building up at all.

On another note, keep in mind that curled gills can also be a sign of too strong water flow. What kind of filter do you have? Sponge filters are the best for axolotls.

I noticed that you have sand as a substrate. That's not a bad thing (I assume you know not to use gravel), but sand does come with the potential problem of trapping pockets of ammonia, which are deadly. Sand also can get really messy while trying to clean it. This is why many axolotl owners go for a bare bottom tank--as long as the water flow isn't too strong, this should be perfectly fine for an axolotl.

On yet another note, it looks from the picture like your axolotl may have some form of dwarfism! It could just be the angle, but it's a strong possibility.

The filter isn’t a problem, I thought for a while it’s flow was so it’s on the lowest setting and has a sponge over the output so it’s output is basically a trickle. I’ve been contemplating whether or not to take her out I just had nowhere else to put her and was worried a tub would be just as bad but if it’s recommended I’m down with that. Even though she’s acting like the water qualities no big deal I know it’s bad and I don’t want her to live in it. I wish the aquarium store had just sold me everything but her and told me to come back in a week or two once it’s cycled (or at least halfway through) because it’s been a roller coaster. What size tub do you think and how long? I’m worried the tub would add to her stress with changing it’s water everyday, but the nitrites are so ridiculous and I think at this point they need (as you said) a big water change and to kick start with something like tss.

 

[AMurry24537]

The goal of tubbing is basically to allow you to avoid that buildup by replacing small amounts of water rather than your full tank. It will be stressful, but the situation she's in now is deadly. To keep the stress down as much as possible, try to keep her in very dim light and at cool temperatures as much as you can. When you switch the water, try to make sure both are the same temperature. I would say that two plastic shoebox size totes should do. To help with oxygen circulation while tubbing, you can put the end of an airline just under the surface of the water.

 

[Naok]

The goal of tubbing is basically to allow you to avoid that buildup by replacing small amounts of water rather than your full tank. It will be stressful, but the situation she's in now is deadly. To keep the stress down as much as possible, try to keep her in very dim light and at cool temperatures as much as you can. When you switch the water, try to make sure both are the same temperature. I would say that two plastic shoebox size totes should do. To help with oxygen circulation while tubbing, you can put the end of an airline just under the surface of the water.

Ok thank you. Last night she spent her first night in a tub, waters about 63-64 degrees, and the waters good except for despite what I do it automatically reads between .5-1ppm of ammonia even before she was in. I’m keeping a close eye on it. Do you recommend doing 2 water changes a day or 1? I’ve seen people say and do both.

 

[Calgarycoppers]

Hi!!

Can you test your tap water for all 3 so we know what you are starting with.

Some places have ammonia and nitrate to start which sets you hugely behind.

I also recommend you tub your lotl until your cycle is complete. Minimum once daily 100% water change on the tub. Depending on yourt ap water reading you may need to add extra Seachem Prime to keep things bound until the next water change.

For your tank you should ideally get some pure ammonia to "feed" your cycle.

Amazon.com

Dr Tims One & Only some people need 1 bottle some need 2
or
Ammonium Chloride powder - only need 1/4-1/2 lb max

HERE is my how to cycle cheat sheet and tracking form.

pour the poopy tub water in the tank until you get the pure ammonia

 

[Naok]

I’ve been tubbing for a couple days now. It would appear my tap automatically has ammonia in it as the water for the tub has between .5ppm-1ppm ammonia and the tank measures 0ppm. I replaced 50% of the tank water then added tetra safe start in hopes it’ll add to the finished cycle. I’ve done daily water changes for the tub, keeping it around 64-65 degrees which my axie seems to enjoy (it’s what she had before in the tank). I’ve been testing the tank daily since and obviously no change yet. But I wasn’t sure if I should add other things to it along with the TSS.

 

[minorhero]

I’ve been tubbing for a couple days now. It would appear my tap automatically has ammonia in it as the water for the tub has between .5ppm-1ppm ammonia and the tank measures 0ppm. I replaced 50% of the tank water then added tetra safe start in hopes it’ll add to the finished cycle. I’ve done daily water changes for the tub, keeping it around 64-65 degrees which my axie seems to enjoy (it’s what she had before in the tank). I’ve been testing the tank daily since and obviously no change yet. But I wasn’t sure if I should add other things to it along with the TSS.

Does your tap water come from a city water supply or a well?

If you age your water (let tap water it sit in a clean cup for 1 day) does it still test for ammonia?

 

[Naok]

Does your tap water come from a city water supply or a well?

If you age your water (let tap water it sit in a clean cup for 1 day) does it still test for ammonia?

I’ve never tried aging it, so I’ll have to do a little experiment and see. It is city water.

 

[Calgarycoppers]

I’ve never tried aging it, so I’ll have to do a little experiment and see. It is city water.

aging doesnt help with ammonia.

 

[Calgarycoppers]

You may need to look into an RODI system or bottled spring water. especially if you are forever starting at higher ammonia

I’ve been tubbing for a couple days now. It would appear my tap automatically has ammonia in it as the water for the tub has between .5ppm-1ppm ammonia and the tank measures 0ppm. I replaced 50% of the tank water then added tetra safe start in hopes it’ll add to the finished cycle. I’ve done daily water changes for the tub, keeping it around 64-65 degrees which my axie seems to enjoy (it’s what she had before in the tank). I’ve been testing the tank daily since and obviously no change yet. But I wasn’t sure if I should add other things to it along with the TSS.

 

[minorhero]

aging doesnt help with ammonia.

It does for chloramine though and that will throw off the api test kit because the ammonia is part of it in some way I was never too clear on (not a chemist). Anyway I've found that ammonia will sometimes register on 'fresh' tap water but won't (or be less) on aged water. Plus depending on amount of ammonia (if still present) a dechlorinator will take care of it.

 

[Naok]

You may need to look into an RODI system or bottled spring water. especially if you are forever starting at higher ammonia

I have a water filter pitcher I use for my plants, should I try running all of the water through that first, then add prime? It essentially just gets me distilled water without having to buy and throw away a bunch of plastic jugs.

 

[Calgarycoppers]

You have to remineralize distilled and RODI water.
a GH/KH test kit would be needed

I have a water filter pitcher I use for my plants, should I try running all of the water through that first, then add prime? It essentially just gets me distilled water without having to buy and throw away a bunch of plastic jugs.

 

[minorhero]

I have a water filter pitcher I use for my plants, should I try running all of the water through that first, then add prime? It essentially just gets me distilled water without having to buy and throw away a bunch of plastic jugs.

Those types of filters (charcoal filters) will remove a lot of impurities in water including chlorine and (my understanding) to a lesser extent chloramine but seems to have even less of an affect on ammonia. Also it does almost nothing for TDS so you don't need to remineralize water that has been through a charcoal filter, its also not the same as distilled water for what's that worth.

Anyway running your aquaruim water through it certainly won't hurt anything. I would say short term you want to make sure your aquarium is cycled. Longer term you need to figure out a good procedure for doing water changes. Did you age some water for testing? If so what result?