Tank Cycling: Strange White Growth

Hello All,
I'm new to axolotls and tank cycling, but I've done several weeks of research and haven't seen anything close to what is happening in the tank I have been cycling for the last 5 weeks. My axolotl (Riptide) is currently 5.5-6" and is being tubbed in a 3 gallon tank with 2x daily water changes and feedings. Riptide appears to be happy and healthy eating and pooping regularly, but I know that as he is growing quickly he will need to be moved into the tank I'm cycling asap.

Here are the facts about the cycling tank:

• 20 gallon long - filled 3-4" from the top
• Tap water treated with Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability - per bottle instructions (treated on day 1 and for first 7 days, then treated as water evaporated and was add back to tank)
• 2 hides - one with NO white growth, one covered WITH strange white fluffy looking growth (both added on day 1 of cycle)
• black aquarium sand and river rocks (sanitized by boiling for 20 mins) - added on day 28 of cycle
• 2 sponge filters for healthy bacteria growth (added on day 1 of cycle)
• 1 airstone for oxygenation (added on day 1 of cycle_
• 3 live plants for ammonia absorption (various anubias) - added on day 21 of cycle
• 4-fan aquarium fans to maintain temperature
• temperature has maintained 64-66 degrees for the entire 5 weeks
• ph is at 7.4-7.6
• ammonia has ranged from 0ppm - 0.05ppm
• nitrite has ranged from 0ppm - 0.05ppm
• nitrate has ranged from 0ppm - 10ppm

As the cycling process takes time and fluctuations mean that it is working through the process; my main concern is the strange white growth on the one hide. Can anyone tell me if it is a fungus or a bacterial growth? I do not want to put Riptide's health at risk and I found in my research that a fungus could be lethal.
I've included photos to help identify what the issue could be. TIA!

what are you using as a source of ammonia?

wolfen said:

what are you using as a source of ammonia?

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FritzZyme Fishless Fuel: 4 drops per gallon

4 drops per gallon is only 2ppm it needs to be 4ppm, how have you cycled the tank ie.. one dose? daily doses? etc..

wolfen said:

4 drops per gallon is only 2ppm it needs to be 4ppm, how have you cycled the tank ie.. one dose? daily doses? etc..

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Following the instructions on the bottle I only used one dose of 2ppm. Do you recommend dosing it again? Or do I need to start over completely?

don't use anymore bacteria right now as the water has gone slightly stagnant causing the slime/mould.
it might be best to do a water change to freshen the water and remove some of the slime, also turn the sand over with a fork to oxygenate it, make sure to dechlorinate before adding to tank 50% water change should be enough.
add enough ammonia to bring it up to 4ppm then retest after 24hrs and top up to 4ppm, keep repeating this until the ammonia and nitrites are zero after 24hrs then top back up to 4ppm for a few more days to make sure that the cycling is complete.
after doing the water change to remove the slime don't do anymore unless either the nitrates are 110ppm or higher or the cycling has finished.
what size tank are the air sponges rated at?
keep an eye on ph, if it goes below 7 add enough bicarbonate of soda to bring the ph to 7.4 - 7.6
using a heater whilst cycling will help speed up the cycling.

wolfen said:

don't use anymore bacteria right now as the water has gone slightly stagnant causing the slime/mould.
it might be best to do a water change to freshen the water and remove some of the slime, also turn the sand over with a fork to oxygenate it, make sure to dechlorinate before adding to tank 50% water change should be enough.
add enough ammonia to bring it up to 4ppm then retest after 24hrs and top up to 4ppm, keep repeating this until the ammonia and nitrites are zero after 24hrs then top back up to 4ppm for a few more days to make sure that the cycling is complete.
after doing the water change to remove the slime don't do anymore unless either the nitrates are 110ppm or higher or the cycling has finished.
what size tank are the air sponges rated at?
keep an eye on ph, if it goes below 7 add enough bicarbonate of soda to bring the ph to 7.4 - 7.6
using a heater whilst cycling will help speed up the cycling.

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Okay, I was planning on adding dechlorinated water due to evaporation. I was also planning on removing the fuzzy hide and gently scrubbing off the white stuff, but I wasn't sure if I should just remove it entirely? Then I'll test the water and bring the ammonia up to 4ppm and retest in 24hrs. Just to be clear - I need ammonia and nitrites at zero after 24hrs and then repeat ammonia 4ppm dosing and retest to get ammonia and nitrites at zero again after 24hrs for a few days?
The sponge filters are rated for 55 gallons each. I added the second sponge filter hoping to get it "seeded" with beneficial bacteria to start cycling a second tank in the near future. Riptide is supposed to be a classroom pet (at a private HS) but I wanted to get a second 20 gallon long tank cycled for school breaks when he/she would need to come home with me.
I will keep an eye on the ph, but it has remained steady over the last 5 weeks.
I hadn't considered a heater due to the tank's intended resident being an axolotl. Do you recommend adding a heater or should I just turn off the fan unit?

whilst the tank is cycling it doesn't need cooling, only once it is cycled and riptide is in the tank that it needs cooling.
both ammonia and nitrites need to be zero 24hrs after having 4ppm ammonia added, this is because an adult axolotl can produce up to 4ppm ammonia in a 24hr period and the tank/filtration needs to be able to cope.
once ammonia is topped up daily the nitrates will start to rise which can cause a lowering of the ph if the kh isn't high enough.
warming the water will speed up both the ammonia break down rate and encourage bacteria colony growth.

Here are the levels after a 50% water change. I will add the ammonia to get it up to 4ppm. I also removed as much of the white fluffy coating as I could from the hide on the right. I also removed the fan. My classroom is usually 70-72F. Do you think that will be warm enough?
I've added the ammonia and tested to ensure it is at 4ppm. I will retest in 24hrs. Thank you for your help and guidance!

JanineAxolotl said:

As the cycling process takes time and fluctuations mean that it is working through the process; my main concern is the strange white growth on the one hide. Can anyone tell me if it is a fungus or a bacterial growth? I do not want to put Riptide's health at risk and I found in my research that a fungus could be lethal.

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Hi,
To answer your question :
The strange thing for this strange growth is the fact it only grows on one hide and not the other. Are the two hides of a different nature ?
Anyway, I seriously doubt this is dangerous for your axolotl.
As it looks filamentous, I think of fungus (if the hide is made of an organic matter like wood) or algae, since there is almost nothing in the tank for ammonia or nitrate absorption
(Anubias are not fast-growing plants, so they are not very efficient to uptake ammonia ; add Egeria or Ceratophyllum when you think the cycling is finished).

JM29 said:

Hi,
To answer your question :
The strange thing for this strange growth is the fact it only grows on one hide and not the other. Are the two hides of a different nature ?
Anyway, I seriously doubt this is dangerous for your axolotl.
As it looks filamentous, I think of fungus (if the hide is made of an organic matter like wood) or algae, since there is almost nothing in the tank for ammonia or nitrate absorption
(Anubias are not fast-growing plants, so they are not very efficient to uptake ammonia ; add Egeria or Ceratophyllum when you think the cycling is finished).

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Thank you for your feedback! Both hides are artificial so there is no organic matter to cause one to have the growth over the other. It is definitely puzzling!