It all has to do with the biological filtration.
When a tank is first set up it is a nasty chemical mess. Once live animals are introduced, their wastes build up. If the water pH is below 7, the ionized form of ammonia NH4 is formed. I will mention here that this form is not really all that toxic to aquatics. Now if the pH is higher than 7, you end up with the un-ionized form of ammonia NH3. NH3 is the toxic critter killer. Anything above about 2 parts per million of NH3 is bad news for you animals. The problem with ammonia tests for aquarists is that they are unable to differentiate between these two forms. Your test may say "HOLY BACON of the JAMAICAN! AMMONIA!" but it may not be NH3.
Now, in a properly cycled tank with an established filter, there are some bacteria that help us out. Nitrosomonas bacteria combine the ammonia with oxygen as their "food". This effectively neutralizes the ammonia into nitrites. This is great as now the ammonia is not an issue. Problem is nitrites at levels as low as 1 mg/l are toxic to a lot of aquatic animals...
Good news though, there is another type of bacterias known as Nitrobacter that "eat" nitrites! these guys also are introduced to the tank when live animals are. Nitors convert the nitrites and excrete nitrates as waste. Nitrates are not harmful to aquatics at low levels. The best way to control nitate is to do regularly schedueld water changes of about 20% or so.
The hardest part of the ammonia cycle is that in order for it to work, you have to have a steady supply of waste in the tank for the bacteria to do their thing with. While I am sure some folks will scoff at this, I have goldfish I keep for just this purpose. Yes, goldfish. I have a colony of breeding feeder goldfish and I use the main pair to cycle my tanks before adding caudates. Goldfish are nasty filthy animals that seem to excrete more than the consume. This comes in handy around my home for jump starting a new tank. Apple snails and a bit flaked fish food work really well too, they just take longer. You mentioned you have some feeder fish, so you are already one step ahaead of the game.
In your case it appears you have over chemicaled your tank. "Stress coat, ammo lock, stress zyme, biozyme and a ph regulator" I would eliminate use of the stress coat, the stresszyme and the ammo lock immediately.As for pH regulators, I would avoid those too if at all possible. All of those chemicals in addition to your water treatment (which I hope you are using) are counter productive to getting the cycle going in your tank.
I would do as the others have suggested and start doing water changes using aged, treated water. I would also change out your filter media so that you have about a quarter cup of activated carbon and a quarter cup of zeolite for the first two weeks. Test your aged treated water for pH before you treat it and 24 hours after you treat it but before you add it to the tank. If the pH is still to low or too high, adjust it then and wait 24 more hours before adding it to the tank. I am not sure what you are using, but a sodium thiosulfate treatment like Amquel is best for removing chlorine and chloramine in my experience. After the first two weeks, I would slowly lessen the amount of zeolite. The zeolite is a short term fix, and you will need to remove it all together to get your tank cycling properly. I agree with the previous posters, when it comes to carbon, a little bit changed more frequently is better than a lot changed monthly.
Some OTC water treatments can shift pH, especially if they contains aloe, as this breaks down while the stuff sits on the shelf, and can help cause pH drops, which kills off your helpful bacteria, which destroys your cycle before it gets a chance to start.
One last factor I would like to mention is carbonate hardness. Carbonate Hardness can affect not only your oxygen levels, but also affect your helpful bacteria needed for biological filtration. Water temperature can also be a factor here. Warm soft water (72F and low KH) tends to be harder to get cycling than cooler hard water (55-65F a high KH). If you find your tap water is too soft, or if in fact you have a water softener installed in your home, It may be advantageous to use bottled spring water to get you tank started, or if possible, collect your tank water before it goes through the softener.
. Thank you all for all of your help! My axies are lazing about happily! And as a side note while feeding them less they have decided to get off their rears and hunt! About 4 guppies a week but I am happy they are finding stimuli in the tank!